Fashion Books to Own: History of Costume by Kohler

<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1ocEkKPe20FNZ6Hkm_woMxavlEKSMVfwwcxKQ8itYFYSg2rLH2dF9lvzAYm0U_tPnWQ51LWSdAI0reFiNont42qfJTq0ZD7hxYa_4vI-nHKaEIeLCIIyfSJsdEGV67rabSrzqRAJNVbyE/s1600/IMG_6131.JPG"><img alt="history of costume by kohler" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5598798050067053410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1ocEkKPe20FNZ6Hkm_woMxavlEKSMVfwwcxKQ8itYFYSg2rLH2dF9lvzAYm0U_tPnWQ51LWSdAI0reFiNont42qfJTq0ZD7hxYa_4vI-nHKaEIeLCIIyfSJsdEGV67rabSrzqRAJNVbyE/s400/IMG_6131.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px; height: 300px;" /></a><br /><br />"A History of Costume" by Carl Kohler<br /><br />Anyone who loves fashion or costumes should have a reference library. It's always nice to have something to look through when a costume question comes up. To start at the beginning, this is probably one of the most popular older publications on fashion that still makes sense today. Originally published in 1928, this was revived by Dover Publications in the 60's as a small soft bound book that was inexpensive to own. <br /> <br />What makes this book still valid today when every new book is in full color, are the countless pattern drafts from original historical garments and the photos of museum fashions. Being able to see actual historical pieces is always enlightening, but the costume drafts are super helpful when making original costumes or creating fashions that are derived from historical inspiration.<br /><br />This book has over 600 photos and pattern drafts, which really packs a punch into the 464 pages of this little (5 1/8" x 7 7/8")volume. Seriously, if you love fashion, this should be on your bookshelf.<br /><br />Where to find it?<br /><br /><a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/72585645/history-of-costume-by-kohler-costume"><span style="font-weight:bold;">The History of Costume by Kholer</span></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgfupeiWSAe32YAfrkCS6tI3W9C8VdyIiw38eiQ5aktzW4Hdw2qUNU9mI0Iqk_Y1S_ygh3i-5asHgc1JEFe0pUYBvu5J6ExJugrvA1lkO12hCu5OT0jvqOcWePv8uHCtckwE6QrVI3vKn7/s1600/IMG_6132.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5598797969741011714" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgfupeiWSAe32YAfrkCS6tI3W9C8VdyIiw38eiQ5aktzW4Hdw2qUNU9mI0Iqk_Y1S_ygh3i-5asHgc1JEFe0pUYBvu5J6ExJugrvA1lkO12hCu5OT0jvqOcWePv8uHCtckwE6QrVI3vKn7/s400/IMG_6132.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px; height: 375px;" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8wfe_wRxzwar5Md65BUavZ2sx7PFUhSydIWN29bO7HYXLjfHrSMDi14rV5qX6lFHfaHdNztSdClFpBTRBBKqpM9KTVAWAyiQavdX28aG3O5tiO-0hxwv8SOQSqGYlvXBVwdhGNdoCBPLc/s1600/IMG_6133.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5598797886157142978" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8wfe_wRxzwar5Md65BUavZ2sx7PFUhSydIWN29bO7HYXLjfHrSMDi14rV5qX6lFHfaHdNztSdClFpBTRBBKqpM9KTVAWAyiQavdX28aG3O5tiO-0hxwv8SOQSqGYlvXBVwdhGNdoCBPLc/s400/IMG_6133.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px; height: 375px;" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9mddKeYGLpiu0qUH0vBSbLkeuyzIxkgvn5Lq_jlwaJuKE-P9FgrDB0FyMgKei3mcOTmxhpDmcfDf2woo0kpXTqKLU0vbMN9F2zG2qQwLfo1z4fYpCP2vn2jMY0ZGz1i9atEuw-7UMmGeG/s1600/IMG_6134.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5598797790492694786" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9mddKeYGLpiu0qUH0vBSbLkeuyzIxkgvn5Lq_jlwaJuKE-P9FgrDB0FyMgKei3mcOTmxhpDmcfDf2woo0kpXTqKLU0vbMN9F2zG2qQwLfo1z4fYpCP2vn2jMY0ZGz1i9atEuw-7UMmGeG/s400/IMG_6134.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px; height: 375px;" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjBSTbcL7LJSoD9cPshjl9GuUUx9Sht3cTXCf0C2u66l5fSbC_E9-rkyrLIfgsOcPL8TcKz-XZSSsga9johnGdVm01118tf4W9VrKXb0FFBtq7wgDzNx7BTZXZU-01fiG7BcaMzu7KQEIs/s1600/IMG_6135.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5598797684867058418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjBSTbcL7LJSoD9cPshjl9GuUUx9Sht3cTXCf0C2u66l5fSbC_E9-rkyrLIfgsOcPL8TcKz-XZSSsga9johnGdVm01118tf4W9VrKXb0FFBtq7wgDzNx7BTZXZU-01fiG7BcaMzu7KQEIs/s400/IMG_6135.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px; height: 375px;" /></a>

Fashion Books to Own: History of Costume by Kohler

"A History of Costume" by Carl KohlerAnyone who loves fashion or costumes should have a reference library. It's always nice to have something to look through when a costume question comes up. To start at the beginning, this is probably one of the most popular older publications on fashion that sti…

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Pantone Honeysuckle: The Color for Spring

<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaBlhb5Bi_02a4yQxuRIqPexWT58SygH4_xMYllei7h5vmwr21eVPiybelUuwThyphenhyphenfOC6iWyULdUlCwErt8DELCIjqpIuQUMpCo8rZFZWt7LRTtBr19uH0sAVBpSyRDHnSU1CdAyGeaIy68/s1600/Slide2.JPG"><img alt="honeysuckle" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5598060291605047058" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaBlhb5Bi_02a4yQxuRIqPexWT58SygH4_xMYllei7h5vmwr21eVPiybelUuwThyphenhyphenfOC6iWyULdUlCwErt8DELCIjqpIuQUMpCo8rZFZWt7LRTtBr19uH0sAVBpSyRDHnSU1CdAyGeaIy68/s400/Slide2.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px; height: 354px;" /></a><a href="http://www.pantone.com/pages/pantone/pantone.aspx?pg=20824&ca=10"><span style="font-weight:bold;">'Honeysuckle'</span></a> is the name Pantone color services has given this warm, dark pink, their color choice for 2011. Now that we are seeing signs of spring, it's time to consider this color as it is arriving in stores this month.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCWa_laWPNQ1HKJSq_pkQBEoynG-axFWT_JJqgPhhg9aYu21wHUdec_rpEGa9VeuqgXkQTd5uBR-Iw5IHSqYbrRqHdVuvSl9KOzNVdQxH_LnWGzYyOZiZzuGwvhzKLKhIDtAP6Te7sMon5/s1600/Slide1.JPG"><img alt="vintage fashion" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5598060202512136402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCWa_laWPNQ1HKJSq_pkQBEoynG-axFWT_JJqgPhhg9aYu21wHUdec_rpEGa9VeuqgXkQTd5uBR-Iw5IHSqYbrRqHdVuvSl9KOzNVdQxH_LnWGzYyOZiZzuGwvhzKLKhIDtAP6Te7sMon5/s400/Slide1.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px; height: 425px;" /></a>It shouldn't come as a surprise that this pink is a vintage color, re-claimed from the 1970's and early 1980's. With this in mind, we assembled a rack of 'Honeysuckle' pink from our Etsy shop. Shown here are a few dresses to tempt you into wearing pink this season. Whether the pink you choose is on the bright side, or shy's away towards the dusty rose versions, pink looks new again. This classic hue can work into any wardrobe when you are looking for a color is that is both up beat and inviting to wear.<br /><br />Where to FIND these DRESSES?<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">TOP SLIDE:</span><br /><a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/56753458/60s-party-pink-mad-men-era-vintage-silk?ga_search_query=pink&ga_search_type=user_shop_ttt_id_5359523">1960 Mad Men Silk</a><br /><a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/61533053/80s-barbie-pink-peplum-vintage-dress?ga_search_query=pink&ga_search_type=user_shop_ttt_id_5359523">1980's Peplum</a><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">LOWER SLIDE</span><br /><a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/68085086/1980s-diane-fres-flapper-style-drop?ga_search_query=pink&ga_search_type=user_shop_ttt_id_5359523">1980's Floral Flapper</a><br /><a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/45970666/vintage-70s-cherry-red-maxi-grecian?ga_search_query=maxi&ga_search_type=user_shop_ttt_id_5359523">1970's Maxi Goddess</a><br /><a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/72592446/70s-dark-pink-jersey-dress-size-6-or-8?ga_search_query=pink&ga_search_type=user_shop_ttt_id_5359523">1970's Jersey</a>

Pantone Honeysuckle: The Color for Spring

'Honeysuckle' is the name Pantone color services has given this warm, dark pink, their color choice for 2011. Now that we are seeing signs of spring, it's time to consider this color as it is arriving in stores this month.It shouldn't come as a surprise that this pink is a vintage color, re-claimed…

Read more »

Generation Gap: Buttons

<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgObNrcK7g3nSFOYWYQmbi-z68YAZYohnANqHcq19QF20mXfLK-BV6Awllj7x6MnIEj337SQIINpA436ptKtvsosWGtRBBtdjSEg4Xw7L3Yc_Nml1ajn3bsebs9xE3uSuvilSfjVhhVtNLY/s1600/P7240005.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595838545544482610" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgObNrcK7g3nSFOYWYQmbi-z68YAZYohnANqHcq19QF20mXfLK-BV6Awllj7x6MnIEj337SQIINpA436ptKtvsosWGtRBBtdjSEg4Xw7L3Yc_Nml1ajn3bsebs9xE3uSuvilSfjVhhVtNLY/s400/P7240005.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 360px; height: 480px;" /></a>Is is possible to live without buttons? Well, if you were born after 2000, it may be. Recently one of my students in a beginning design course turned in a collection that puzzled me. The garments she designed didn't seem to show her assignment: design a line influenced by a decade from the 20th century. When I asked her how her decade had influenced the designs, she responded: "Buttons, the decade used buttons, so that is my influence". I had to pause and think about that because usually these projects reflect the silhouette and style lines from the decade, and not a trim. <br /><br />Then it hit me: a girl born after 1990 has grown up in the era of "American Apparel" Ts and "Forever 21" easy knit tops. Is it possible that today's college student hasn't owned a garment with buttons? Are buttons really a vintage trim? Has she worn only knits and zippers?<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRT0rUiNCN-IwTj0289y7nL_Y4IKMeXXOtpO0RTlCS1nltKu4cH1B_a5Msu7Qp5YEgyPeKLYf6XC4934qhh5jTky1bOq12nnSo9dXE9094-sq_IOrkLrTANFYIWGpMTxUb2g8WWUu8N_-A/s1600/P6250108.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595839168920926370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRT0rUiNCN-IwTj0289y7nL_Y4IKMeXXOtpO0RTlCS1nltKu4cH1B_a5Msu7Qp5YEgyPeKLYf6XC4934qhh5jTky1bOq12nnSo9dXE9094-sq_IOrkLrTANFYIWGpMTxUb2g8WWUu8N_-A/s400/P6250108.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 330px; height: 480px;" /></a>Taking a look at buttons with this point of view can be a new way to find inspiration. Here we have a few fashion illustrations from the early 1960's when Jackie O was wearing large scale buttons that popped down her suit jackets. Sometimes these were bold colors, other times the buttons were covered to match the suit fabric.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgrktmNBQJuSHUNf1VKXOE9fsj9FUZGeJH91Q-Vv2Wer6aeX6JxLfcR0GfqDFbcHpD46UpWu6Vp4TV4WM10va3Ui3wdwniYhoNFrBxiTFmnGYgBlA9MaPb09Wwnvs2-evBntsPC01qFTxA/s1600/P6250113.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595838994936397554" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgrktmNBQJuSHUNf1VKXOE9fsj9FUZGeJH91Q-Vv2Wer6aeX6JxLfcR0GfqDFbcHpD46UpWu6Vp4TV4WM10va3Ui3wdwniYhoNFrBxiTFmnGYgBlA9MaPb09Wwnvs2-evBntsPC01qFTxA/s400/P6250113.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 480px; height: 480px;" /></a>And where would the shirt waist dress be without its row of buttons, clever colored accents in a wide variety of styles. So, maybe it's time to remember buttons when we design or sew. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJsZrWzXotu-RhyphenhyphenY-1-J_tT8hDYN1ksiscMFPvc0Xc8yuW3WFMAFWyiBvKamcRQwM5o7koBgVFXrnbYYgboMB6xCT3Dy1aBBRvucyDSW6mpGZ3_qRepK9CKNz-DDrQcphNzHWpI4WNWhme/s1600/IMG_0783.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595852176993650594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJsZrWzXotu-RhyphenhyphenY-1-J_tT8hDYN1ksiscMFPvc0Xc8yuW3WFMAFWyiBvKamcRQwM5o7koBgVFXrnbYYgboMB6xCT3Dy1aBBRvucyDSW6mpGZ3_qRepK9CKNz-DDrQcphNzHWpI4WNWhme/s400/IMG_0783.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 400px;" /></a>This dress has a great 70's style, a design for <a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/49848548/balmain-vogue-designer-sheath">Vogue by <span style="font-weight:bold;">Balmain</span></a> that has couture style lines and a neat row up buttons down the center front.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirFX62nrduTSoGLI5WbmHY6j4eHpMQ489kFqv_JTtb3uO5ANa3zQq14G4_y8txHI0jI5GDPLNuAU5jlUqBvEHxqE7d1kpj4waUADgWBuWGA1fhN55fW6D9MvicPiZ54afk2HuCTyKNL9cY/s1600/IMG_0770.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595851903663915474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirFX62nrduTSoGLI5WbmHY6j4eHpMQ489kFqv_JTtb3uO5ANa3zQq14G4_y8txHI0jI5GDPLNuAU5jlUqBvEHxqE7d1kpj4waUADgWBuWGA1fhN55fW6D9MvicPiZ54afk2HuCTyKNL9cY/s400/IMG_0770.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" /></a>Looking at more 70's style, this sexy blouse can be worn tied or buttoned, and looks terrific over fit and flared 70's wide leg pants. This was designed for <a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/49851001/anne-klein-vogue-designershirt-skirt">Vogue by <span style="font-weight:bold;">Anne Klein</span>.</a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOc4_7kB65SSaOwXiYZARFwQfK31vHXzmkLjyDOHDm9TUfhHI38VtFFqtaM0bxv02yqGhpjYI5ZxEisQ7iefMBLA2cYG2EOClvsZLJ-wNLPBaKbn3S6XMDgtyNN_9of11EE42ZwCNjMf2i/s1600/Safari+shirt.+M5052.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595848846540289874" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOc4_7kB65SSaOwXiYZARFwQfK31vHXzmkLjyDOHDm9TUfhHI38VtFFqtaM0bxv02yqGhpjYI5ZxEisQ7iefMBLA2cYG2EOClvsZLJ-wNLPBaKbn3S6XMDgtyNN_9of11EE42ZwCNjMf2i/s400/Safari+shirt.+M5052.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 379px; height: 400px;" /></a>Whether you find them in thrift stores, estate sales or at the local fabric store, buttons are coming back into style. Many front closures on the new <a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m5052-products-4721.php?page_id=482"><span style="font-weight:bold;">safari shirts</span></a> and blouses sport unique buttons that create visual interest.<br /><br />So, maybe the time has come to grow up and wear buttons!<br /><br />Vintage Sewing patterns:<br /><a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/49851001/anne-klein-vogue-designershirt-skirt">Vogue 1062</a>, Anne Klein, 1970's button shirt<br /><a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/49848548/balmain-vogue-designer-sheath">Vogue 2827</a>, Balmain, 1970's dress<br /><br />New Sewing pattern:<br /><a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m5052-products-4721.php?page_id=482"><span style="font-weight:bold;">McCall's 5052</span></a>, Safari shirt

Generation Gap: Buttons

Is is possible to live without buttons? Well, if you were born after 2000, it may be. Recently one of my students in a beginning design course turned in a collection that puzzled me. The garments she designed didn't seem to show her assignment: design a line influenced by a decade from the 20th c…

Read more »

Citrus Brights: Refreshing Spring Colors

<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_X3JNtT7VI5yxfTKLtJhZF_IAoT-V90hJnnQNUhkhWH28GSnWvc119uQ-Ug8MYXL7-fX3PrZDH42Vz8d93UTNYbzCX0bJYUGEFsTjjZoYO6NNE4cFM-Zk9osbyrVtuHeu8VX5X4fS6wbR/s1600/Citrus+blast.jpg"><img alt="citrus colors" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5593217894458430514" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_X3JNtT7VI5yxfTKLtJhZF_IAoT-V90hJnnQNUhkhWH28GSnWvc119uQ-Ug8MYXL7-fX3PrZDH42Vz8d93UTNYbzCX0bJYUGEFsTjjZoYO6NNE4cFM-Zk9osbyrVtuHeu8VX5X4fS6wbR/s400/Citrus+blast.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px; height: 375px;" /></a> Gotta love these spring colors. Our <a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/52750346/60s-maxi-cotton-lime-green-polka-dot?ref=tre-4d9e93a50e1e6d91a1d4e4de-1"><span style="font-weight:bold;">limey green polka dot dress</span></a> from the 60's is that cute style at top left. What a Citrus Blast! This sunny collection is posted as a treasury of items on Etsy <a href="http://www.etsy.com/treasury/4d9e93a50e1e6d91a1d4e4de/citrus-blast"><span style="font-weight:bold;">(here)</span>. <br /></a> Isn't it time to break out some new bright colors? Hello Spring!

Citrus Brights: Refreshing Spring Colors

Gotta love these spring colors. Our limey green polka dot dress from the 60's is that cute style at top left. What a Citrus Blast! This sunny collection is posted as a treasury of items on Etsy (here). Isn't it time to break out some new bright colors? Hello Spring!…

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Under Tuscan Sun: Sewing Retro Style Dresses

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd35knLLOK2LGnfr7mSeI-iZx5_p0WmPQtbzKA1RxqNEsDyie0blcj9I5MWKBXoOd3PKi-hrOfQabnJ9UKATW2-B3o0cn-dp0hu-t_QY5X-diMzeFHoi7fL6ZHJWwVFcgO5mh_xz9__wtq/s1600/Slide4.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5583612153930612242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd35knLLOK2LGnfr7mSeI-iZx5_p0WmPQtbzKA1RxqNEsDyie0blcj9I5MWKBXoOd3PKi-hrOfQabnJ9UKATW2-B3o0cn-dp0hu-t_QY5X-diMzeFHoi7fL6ZHJWwVFcgO5mh_xz9__wtq/s400/Slide4.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 305px;" /></a><br />"Under Tuscan Sun" from 2003 remains a popular chick flick, in part due to the vintage styles worn by the lead characters, designed by veteran costume designer Nicoletta Ercole. The 'white dress' that the lead character Frances (Diane Lane) wears created quite a scene when the movie was shown. It was a mini trend at the time. Women everywhere wanted to find that white dress. <br /><br />Dresses featured in this film seem timeless: fitted bodice with longer tea length hemlines. This look couldn't be more current, as tea length styles are once again in fashion. I thought it might be fun to take a second glance at these costumes. <br /><br /><i>Three years have passed since I wrote this blog post. At the time, little did I know that it would become one of the most popular posts ever for this blog. Out of respect for those of you that come here looking for these wonderful dresses, I thought it would be a good time to update the sewing patterns that I listed here. I'll share some new patterns with you at the end of the original post.</i><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixoQiLjqeEKWQroXtQ2iUiMdDK1yCtNCFjOFbgNZNeEq-x65XSbB5Oy_ojrN2ne2ycePNvRupoajvvVZdHhy3IG48BHYrWokS8t4kekNMra43yr31Acn0IqiCxMZPJLpbuuuUmjnc5X4Xv/s1600/Slide6.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5583612058378142130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixoQiLjqeEKWQroXtQ2iUiMdDK1yCtNCFjOFbgNZNeEq-x65XSbB5Oy_ojrN2ne2ycePNvRupoajvvVZdHhy3IG48BHYrWokS8t4kekNMra43yr31Acn0IqiCxMZPJLpbuuuUmjnc5X4Xv/s400/Slide6.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 200px;" /></a><br />The white dress seen in a back view shows clearly the silhouette of this outfit. Below the neatly fitting surplice wrapped bodice, a semi-circle skirt is cut to a vintage 1950's 'ballet' or 'tea length' hem line.<br /><br />The bodice fit is accented by a black belt which is the perfect way to note a slim waistline. I show a close-up view of the wrapped bodice, which crosses over to the front darts. The facing is wide, completely covering the bodice center front. It's my guess that the inside fastens on the front left at the dart to keep this from draping open, as surplice tops often do. <br /><br />The sleeve is cut in a short kimono style to make this crepe dress look like it has short sleeves, but without a shoulder seam line. This gives it that late 1940's style. <br /><br />It is important to notice that this is a mock wrapped dress because the skirt is not wrapped, having a half circle skirt instead. To get that look this dress should have a side zipper.<br /><br />What makes this dress such a success is the fabric selection. I believe this is a quality crepe. During the late 1940's we see many similar dresses in this textile. At that time rayon, silk and wool were used to drape soft fold and body contoured silhouettes. Crepe would provide the necessary weight and hand to drape the front wrap, soft shoulder and graceful circle skirt. The bodice appears unlined, except for the facing. <br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2rWDMD34E_WsqiptHvayt9dNLd3PVF8fWK1tPXZyrsr_LPl2mIQ_GZZpeeFvVE0dDrHgaA89lx5LzsJzhFiuy-0HOcha7RTznHNXOlkTdPxG90tHFsTqoTIpjKKTqQ2fyEwsyz5b-EUbi/s1600/Slide3.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5583611963610913154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2rWDMD34E_WsqiptHvayt9dNLd3PVF8fWK1tPXZyrsr_LPl2mIQ_GZZpeeFvVE0dDrHgaA89lx5LzsJzhFiuy-0HOcha7RTznHNXOlkTdPxG90tHFsTqoTIpjKKTqQ2fyEwsyz5b-EUbi/s400/Slide3.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 600px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 333px;" /></a><br />A wedding scene has Frances appearing in yet another captivating dress. This one is probably Thai silk in luminescent peach. It has a great circle skirt, looking similar to that on the white dress. <br /><br />The bodice of this dress is a classic cut: front and side darts create a smooth fit. This crisp fabric requires a set in sleeve, seen here with small cuffs. A narrow shawl collar and covered buttons on the front add soft, but not contrasting details. The one color accent is her wide belt. The skirt on this dress does not continue the center front buttons of the bodice. This would require a side zipper.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitCnV2JV3XBWjyzseSJm7q39ijxM9Y3QhLFATlRQgnYKvITcT2VPRMB-clSZG5JIbaqIkUqKu1Z9pNLNpWgAOhB4LSHGKhi7lL-CIr-QcMja5_WTR7R8upngtcPMTPQaEqnWbLucH31MAR/s1600/Slide1.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5583608188720560434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitCnV2JV3XBWjyzseSJm7q39ijxM9Y3QhLFATlRQgnYKvITcT2VPRMB-clSZG5JIbaqIkUqKu1Z9pNLNpWgAOhB4LSHGKhi7lL-CIr-QcMja5_WTR7R8upngtcPMTPQaEqnWbLucH31MAR/s400/Slide1.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 500px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 375px;" /></a><br />Katherine, played by Lindsay Duncan is an fanciful character whose references to Fellini are underscored by her wardrobe. Some of these gowns appear to be true vintage, others are close copies. This red dress coat dress and hat serve to give this character the eccentric drama she requires. Wide lapel details enhance the monochromatic theme of her red on red outfit.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6wFHq6sn7X2qM1hGpgBdWVD2BhrbV5EzsZ2WlBasok2RGtWx7BcvwytokVeL8llzyHfrLMF2vBEM8wmVzNCciMVAOR6fzsM62RyVD2sTG4SdxyhqIDsBKokyqGYKchiIsBFKOkH7wb_lY/s1600/Slide5.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5583608101372189362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6wFHq6sn7X2qM1hGpgBdWVD2BhrbV5EzsZ2WlBasok2RGtWx7BcvwytokVeL8llzyHfrLMF2vBEM8wmVzNCciMVAOR6fzsM62RyVD2sTG4SdxyhqIDsBKokyqGYKchiIsBFKOkH7wb_lY/s400/Slide5.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 450px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 600px;" /></a><br />In a Fellini moment, we see Katherine in the village fountain, wearing a dress very similar to Fellini's famous fountain scene. It is a slender strapless black sheath with a sheer overskirt lined in gray chiffon. Another black dinner dress with a lace overlay or yoke may be vintage, its delicate details certainly are classic for that era.<br /><br />Now, where to find or re-create these styles? I have found a few sewing patterns that could be altered to reproduce the same look. Actually, the dress styles here are not difficult to sew. The challenge is in the fit instead, so find a willing assistant to pin your fit may be required.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipBH_DfwKPsqkZ1XoKpGLDRlaBHUlIXWLpobExBwJ1RSkjezaTub5m7qixeqExw7Dyg8GgOQYWLT2OTjRfxJWcMUXOkJ6EZMCEU45EAOx4wFm0_4IfkmYeLslXY8zc_jhbGDFTa1dlBhaB/s1600/Slide1.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5583643605965857458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipBH_DfwKPsqkZ1XoKpGLDRlaBHUlIXWLpobExBwJ1RSkjezaTub5m7qixeqExw7Dyg8GgOQYWLT2OTjRfxJWcMUXOkJ6EZMCEU45EAOx4wFm0_4IfkmYeLslXY8zc_jhbGDFTa1dlBhaB/s400/Slide1.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />What both of Frances's dresses have in common is a circle or semi-circle skirt sewn at the waistline to a fitted bodice. In both cases that makes the front closures decorative, because the real dress opening will be a side zipper.<br /><br />These two wrap front sewing patterns have the essential bodice details of the white dress. The green style by Butterick 5030 is closest in cut (minus the collar and ruffled sleeves). The Butterick pattern has front bust darts and will fit a curvy body shape while the Vogue 6846 style is without darts, for a more slender figure. With both bodices, altering the pattern by drafting a wider shoulder cut from the bodice will create the type of sleeve seen on the white dress. <br /><br />Because this should be a mock wrap dress, a circle skirt should be sewn to the bodice instead of wrapping the front skirt. This skirt was probably cut in a 1/2 circle. <br /><br />When adding a circle skirt, completely fit the bodice first to get the waist measurement and skirt length. The skirt will be drafted from those measurements.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfEajPUq152HIkAztwLOBAbKvl38UZ4RNZ_gdzTuMpSBkY6IXiIz2kgczqhiExjSNBlGEl-an4lFipkIogHNl5QLiFVsEtkekColo8L2zt0UQ3qdTyrCJhAqUEIO5T0mm6bKvWRGDMran7/s1600/Slide2.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5583643525590844930" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfEajPUq152HIkAztwLOBAbKvl38UZ4RNZ_gdzTuMpSBkY6IXiIz2kgczqhiExjSNBlGEl-an4lFipkIogHNl5QLiFVsEtkekColo8L2zt0UQ3qdTyrCJhAqUEIO5T0mm6bKvWRGDMran7/s400/Slide2.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />The slender shirtwaist dress by McCalls 4769 has the classic darts to make a fitted torso, as well as set in sleeves. The collar is a traditional notch style. It has a placket front that may be eliminated by taping those center front pattern pieces together on the seamline and cutting as one.<br /><br />The real style challenge is to capture the shirt silhouette. In the movie versions, both were full or semi-circle skirts that were sewn to the fitted bodices, requiring a side seam zipper. While a circle skirt pattern can be found for sale, it is not impossible to cut an original version to fit the bodice. <br /><br />When preparing to draft a circle skirt, the directions ask for a waist measurement. Use the bodice waistline measurement from a fitted garment. Be sure to draft a skirt with side seams. When doing this, I use an open floor space, chalk, yardsticks and even string to create the true arc. <br /><br />Hemming circle skirts is most easily done with a very narrow double fold that is hand sewn or machine stitched. When using softer fabrics like crepe, before hemming the finished dress will need to hang for a week or so to let the hem 'hang out'. After that, have the length measured while wearing the dress. This will even out what is probably an uneven skirt length.<br /><br />If you want more information on drafting circle skirts, the images I show here for the skirt draft are explained in full on the blog: <a href="http://makingthings.andreatung.com/2006/04/diy-circle-skirts.html">Making Things by Andrea Tung</a>.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcGrQJH-KaKmVDI5qSGUdaFVTMe3iHwIG1REYHCSG4_JJ9WB3PfRixVVGhfLjTfcFeAnSMKb9DobHjUL8K-xlQrTzqKatuR5G42QaKQ4xBpXIKIQpvhlaBTwTBnJ9jhhZDwXSV0gJK0y1x/s1600/Slide3.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5583643412764887874" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcGrQJH-KaKmVDI5qSGUdaFVTMe3iHwIG1REYHCSG4_JJ9WB3PfRixVVGhfLjTfcFeAnSMKb9DobHjUL8K-xlQrTzqKatuR5G42QaKQ4xBpXIKIQpvhlaBTwTBnJ9jhhZDwXSV0gJK0y1x/s400/Slide3.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />This concludes the original post. The sewing patterns shown above, Butterick 5030 and Vogue 8646 are still being sold. McCall's 4769 is now out of print, but seems to be available on the McCall's website, and other stores online. <br /><br />To add to the wrap dress collection above, I found several more patterns from Vogue 8896, 8784 and 8379. When looking to match a pattern with your fabric, take care to see if the pattern is designed for a woven or stretch textile, as both are available. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg7-hZSCSeF6PfgMrN-lgnrNYQasdVED1q60KQS8zQb7x0StcYA9fgOis2qOXNmZvHAH_yIkmBiYRgQ0e7BgZC2d-ojiDML258h9sNwYY3Nuj_BhSfog6knsJbrVdUEedkiGJV1-wnh3yz/s1600/Slide2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg7-hZSCSeF6PfgMrN-lgnrNYQasdVED1q60KQS8zQb7x0StcYA9fgOis2qOXNmZvHAH_yIkmBiYRgQ0e7BgZC2d-ojiDML258h9sNwYY3Nuj_BhSfog6knsJbrVdUEedkiGJV1-wnh3yz/s400/Slide2.JPG" /></a></div><br /><br />The simple, slim cut shirt dress pattern was more difficult to locate. McCall's has two dresses that might fit the bill: 6891 and 6696. McCall's 6891 comes the closest to the original dress design. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBatD6-ILuQkVjCPfLpY2yrQBhdtabPk-R6u1wT7xYwOnojTw1cd8yAeM0f557dOX-FdgU3P459dnGDVrdEKzCs6TM2XwHDPSGs9IKuPnSPz6LnqMp7HdcOphQdRUiwG2bfsQ5OtaEWd1v/s1600/Slide1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBatD6-ILuQkVjCPfLpY2yrQBhdtabPk-R6u1wT7xYwOnojTw1cd8yAeM0f557dOX-FdgU3P459dnGDVrdEKzCs6TM2XwHDPSGs9IKuPnSPz6LnqMp7HdcOphQdRUiwG2bfsQ5OtaEWd1v/s400/Slide1.JPG" /></a></div><br /><br />Simplicity 1880 has both dress styles in one pattern. While the shoulders have a slight 40's vibe with a wide shoulder yoke, overall either might sew up into the right look. A good belt would define the waistline too. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiKYU9Qpw9mzdFAlpxUgfiKZUW-hX9tEzeJnkJ8ImgD0n71ZmakslPq9MVSu-3M7WkD7km2BDBV0zuRBJx7-aTUX_W_u5ByyaiauY2gjiUmGIvRi6KbERzlEMKceHXcq4E3jnIVbuMnrgM/s1600/Slide3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiKYU9Qpw9mzdFAlpxUgfiKZUW-hX9tEzeJnkJ8ImgD0n71ZmakslPq9MVSu-3M7WkD7km2BDBV0zuRBJx7-aTUX_W_u5ByyaiauY2gjiUmGIvRi6KbERzlEMKceHXcq4E3jnIVbuMnrgM/s400/Slide3.JPG" /></a></div><br /><br />I want to thank everyone who has contacted me or left comments over the past few years. It has been alot of fun seeing how this post really fills a need that women who sew have. Beautiful dresses that fit well. That isn't too much to ask, is it? <br /><br />

Under Tuscan Sun: Sewing Retro Style Dresses

"Under Tuscan Sun" from 2003 remains a popular chick flick, in part due to the vintage styles worn by the lead characters, designed by veteran costume designer Nicoletta Ercole. The 'white dress' that the lead character Frances (Diane Lane) wears created quite a scene when the movie was shown. It …

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