Pressing Wool

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLcOcinKb6Cg7UBkqkJejH9tTbROgsp6eSD3IviiOENW4S2sEhL4B4sd8op3u59DMb8YsVyvHeSXp9NhoeE1dshyphenhyphenImpus2xaCMopHvbQmyq1pYBTfDwm3BCldVjXTerK1s5_qzF3COAl18/s1600/sketch+and+fabric.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLcOcinKb6Cg7UBkqkJejH9tTbROgsp6eSD3IviiOENW4S2sEhL4B4sd8op3u59DMb8YsVyvHeSXp9NhoeE1dshyphenhyphenImpus2xaCMopHvbQmyq1pYBTfDwm3BCldVjXTerK1s5_qzF3COAl18/s400/sketch+and+fabric.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br>This is the second post on my wool coat project. I show the fabric and sketch for my coat sewing project (<a href="http://pintuckstyle.blogspot.com/2012/10/sewing-retro-style-coat-butterick-5824.html">here</a>) and I thought I would stop and demonstrate how I like to flatten 'puffy' seams in wool. It's lots of fun too! <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqrBEFbSyOW5N4kV_dK4A1e2er3oRI23fXOBxZLxAGk8o2v53ct8c35ipkIy8C_HLo08kkq55sxv-5GOpdIYaraWvx0Z0KakD_82h8eI0uk3o9etP8mTy1LDxv9_lioEeDg-1ZlFiJFe6z/s1600/IMG_4751.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqrBEFbSyOW5N4kV_dK4A1e2er3oRI23fXOBxZLxAGk8o2v53ct8c35ipkIy8C_HLo08kkq55sxv-5GOpdIYaraWvx0Z0KakD_82h8eI0uk3o9etP8mTy1LDxv9_lioEeDg-1ZlFiJFe6z/s400/IMG_4751.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>First off, here is the bodice front dart. The shadow of that seamline shows up, and it would be nicer if it didn't, so I need to press it flat. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV5XKbxVULxYAoSoK26El714RsJOZDo-VoaMqFD1v-P7kq-S23Dsqk-SxBnsHP8OligYLcyXyZxkVPvEZyeCNuSQ7Bh2rPT2piHgpJc1n7eXzxxNO9n90AJAQwY5zIYwcV1EVoKaMruDrE/s1600/IMG_4752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV5XKbxVULxYAoSoK26El714RsJOZDo-VoaMqFD1v-P7kq-S23Dsqk-SxBnsHP8OligYLcyXyZxkVPvEZyeCNuSQ7Bh2rPT2piHgpJc1n7eXzxxNO9n90AJAQwY5zIYwcV1EVoKaMruDrE/s400/IMG_4752.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>I use a water mister to dampen the wool fabric. How much water? Enough to bead up on the fabric surface should be fine. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX2i5XUuLCBaFPs4Re-hd2DX9Zv7CYKvmrq2IzwpyVf8D9ApcIV_-2R0Utfq3h2U_a1jL9Kl3jZdk9Qha2u9fqJfzk0Rmd4hQRDejvb7hMo3S6hx3tbmHKETthzxSdI7Pa7DJaav6leZ5l/s1600/IMG_4753.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX2i5XUuLCBaFPs4Re-hd2DX9Zv7CYKvmrq2IzwpyVf8D9ApcIV_-2R0Utfq3h2U_a1jL9Kl3jZdk9Qha2u9fqJfzk0Rmd4hQRDejvb7hMo3S6hx3tbmHKETthzxSdI7Pa7DJaav6leZ5l/s400/IMG_4753.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Next, I cover the area with a linen tea towel. If you have a press cloth, you can use that too, of course. I have used different linen or cotton fabrics as a press cloth, even a handkerchief can work in a pinch. You should be able to feel the sewn seam under this cloth. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe4L1WZ25HzSfRr6yjuCAEI-BEK_JyMVUwSHmWF3ssItyeEx9qRMyjqnixpXIcrZhlGjakTLuuBZMeT6xEg5bKTZZHb_AK5kEz-Rofz3s1rsfECCXfTn98s-437h-H0K6sGRUoeEiNdq5Z/s1600/IMG_4754.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe4L1WZ25HzSfRr6yjuCAEI-BEK_JyMVUwSHmWF3ssItyeEx9qRMyjqnixpXIcrZhlGjakTLuuBZMeT6xEg5bKTZZHb_AK5kEz-Rofz3s1rsfECCXfTn98s-437h-H0K6sGRUoeEiNdq5Z/s400/IMG_4754.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Now I set my hot iron on top. I use the wool setting. This method of pressing wool with water and press cloth is great for any type of wool garment, even sweaters. A vintage garment can be pressed this way and hung up damp to dry and it will look new again. <br><br>To continue flattening a seamline, I look for steam rising from the wool under it as it heats up. After maybe 15 seconds, I lift the iron and.... <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib9uOST83I5TlP5ZgLkOoEk6e1J76T4qY9Y_w7HUtmo1SsKTKk_4Wd8D1CjD0FsCdELJ6pS_pnKb8DnkNeyziiulLKW9hepuvdAcg3dVxzbD7BFy7UTkhZuIcp6O_LT8bZnQSbq3Q-YfV8/s1600/IMG_4755.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib9uOST83I5TlP5ZgLkOoEk6e1J76T4qY9Y_w7HUtmo1SsKTKk_4Wd8D1CjD0FsCdELJ6pS_pnKb8DnkNeyziiulLKW9hepuvdAcg3dVxzbD7BFy7UTkhZuIcp6O_LT8bZnQSbq3Q-YfV8/s400/IMG_4755.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>SLAM a brick down over the dart. Really? Yes! <br><br>Actually, I also have a nice wooden 'clapper' made for this task as well. You can use a short length of a pine 2X4, or a brick. Slamming down this instrument forces the steam through the wool fabric. It also flattens the seam. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDJqSc95jbZ7GJC69258X0B6X07vcC3s9-wEV1iEf7PnC3bd4ZUG7F7W0XP6FYS5BZV0Ahb1ddHuukjXlh0NrCwu4DxFwa9xe5BuRe3LCXfaFx0WLhSHiHimejcRikrmvHBhnNfk8v89A6/s1600/IMG_4756.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDJqSc95jbZ7GJC69258X0B6X07vcC3s9-wEV1iEf7PnC3bd4ZUG7F7W0XP6FYS5BZV0Ahb1ddHuukjXlh0NrCwu4DxFwa9xe5BuRe3LCXfaFx0WLhSHiHimejcRikrmvHBhnNfk8v89A6/s400/IMG_4756.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Here you can see the brick imprint (hahaha) <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijQIHoEjoTnUYGE4u714_k23LKzpKKotwCQxYSVByiHwkxkSV2fVNNedQH4HgxcRkyc1LGX0_6Vutw_VGsqk4Az4tBxGhzUbf8cRz1tNbQ_5F9oS0clYROEmAzIVHAKzTalBfGTbvl0BwK/s1600/IMG_4757.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijQIHoEjoTnUYGE4u714_k23LKzpKKotwCQxYSVByiHwkxkSV2fVNNedQH4HgxcRkyc1LGX0_6Vutw_VGsqk4Az4tBxGhzUbf8cRz1tNbQ_5F9oS0clYROEmAzIVHAKzTalBfGTbvl0BwK/s400/IMG_4757.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>When I lift the linen, notice how nicely the dart has flattened down. It looks so smooth and clean now. You may have noticed that this is a different seam. I used this technique for all darts and seamlines on this wool coat. <br><br> I hope you get a chance to try steaming wool. It is amazing how nicely wool will press, if you take the time to get it damp and use a press cloth too. <br><br>MATCHING woven lines in a diagonal seamline. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5dWJOg-D0D52BS1suaqidxD6dqiNpgP3D3oUNnHMEg8QnLyvez5moCPYXnX85aVxd2wADYteRE__Hj9K1aG6NKPkHSVmv7tO4b5DSamumj4ZYD851eu7dqDQCOaEuMgeZlLnEeJi0U0aT/s1600/IMG_4759.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5dWJOg-D0D52BS1suaqidxD6dqiNpgP3D3oUNnHMEg8QnLyvez5moCPYXnX85aVxd2wADYteRE__Hj9K1aG6NKPkHSVmv7tO4b5DSamumj4ZYD851eu7dqDQCOaEuMgeZlLnEeJi0U0aT/s400/IMG_4759.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>When I sew with pinstripes, or any fabric with woven lines, I pin baste along the seam line first. Then I open it up like you see here to be sure the pin stripes meet up. If they match, the lines will create a chevron down the seam line. This is the shoulder seam for the kimono sleeve. I won't be able to match the side seams because the geometry changes and the grain lines are not equal.

Pressing Wool

This is the second post on my wool coat project. I show the fabric and sketch for my coat sewing project ( here ) and I thought I would st...

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