1940's Hawaiian styles and Lauren Bacall

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYB8jaPNgtMJrxtjTQO3LnXgFOktoufi4ajIK3uo1_FjV2sf2ay4jTypDaouQ8OWnoUkFbuHb_FtHmr7voRA0U3RUxCYN6tJDE49M4OAZkMXggdf1xyjemZyJ8os670gB2qLzT6mA-_JYv/s1600/Slide5.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5504539110671935522" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYB8jaPNgtMJrxtjTQO3LnXgFOktoufi4ajIK3uo1_FjV2sf2ay4jTypDaouQ8OWnoUkFbuHb_FtHmr7voRA0U3RUxCYN6tJDE49M4OAZkMXggdf1xyjemZyJ8os670gB2qLzT6mA-_JYv/s400/Slide5.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px; height: 375px;" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Audree Gay Creations, California, c. late 1930's through 1940's</span><br /><br />I saw the Alfred Shaheen exhibit of Hawaiian fashions recently and it brought to mind this sultry gown in an aloha print fabric. The fashion styling blends a bit of Pacific sarong skirt with a mainland cowl neck top. A flash of midriff is seen between the skirt and cropped top that is held in place by the insertion of a center front tab, attaching the skirt to bodice. This cocktail or evening style would have been a sensation on the dance floor of the WWII era ball room or private patio party. <br /><br />It is made from a fine navy blue rayon crepe with white floral design, to immitate the better Japanese kabe crepe that was first imported and later inspired the Hawaiian tropicals of the 1930's and 1940's pre-war years.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm7Gp8vD80_rc6Xu3DyaCnqdslt3TbR9ePf_crkgg_UCRwKpsu3Z0Rd4daWtay25KGXzeJtcnZAG1gWHHkIu_b2GwnOrnkfPc07XujLpcyOR_K6pzO7ovdk2ijpEeqI_BQKghhZmUqfmvs/s1600/lauren+bacall.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5504543860444404770" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm7Gp8vD80_rc6Xu3DyaCnqdslt3TbR9ePf_crkgg_UCRwKpsu3Z0Rd4daWtay25KGXzeJtcnZAG1gWHHkIu_b2GwnOrnkfPc07XujLpcyOR_K6pzO7ovdk2ijpEeqI_BQKghhZmUqfmvs/s400/lauren+bacall.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 304px; height: 400px;" /></a><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">To Have and Have Not,1944, Lauren Bacall, designer Milo Anderson (1910-1984) </span><br /><br />The aloha print rayon dress is similar to a sleek version of the same style by Milo Anderson for Lauren Bacall in 1944. Her sarong skirt and midriff top are linked (literally) by a metal ring: a style that would take fire in the 1970's. Her top is more artfully custom draped, but the overall sense of style is still the same: bared midriff with a tropical front draped skirt.<br /><br />It is interesting that this flattering style is so seldom seen in fashion. The concept is a perfect example of 'less is more' when it comes to body exposure!<br /><br /><a class="twitter-share-button" data-count="vertical" data-via="Pintucks" href="http://twitter.com/share">Tweet</a><script type="text/javascript" src="http://platform.twitter.com/widgets.js"></script>

1940's Hawaiian styles and Lauren Bacall

Audree Gay Creations, California, c. late 1930's through 1940's I saw the Alfred Shaheen exhibit of Hawaiian fashions recently and i...

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Movie Costumes of the 1930's and early 1940's

<a href="http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/?action=view&current=hepburnphilstory.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/hepburnphilstory.jpg"></a><br />When movies added sound, the medium took off. What followed was a few decades of prolific output of all types of film. This put a huge burden on the costume and wardrobe shop, which cranked out countless styles for the next few decades. Out of this wealth, there are some memorable standouts. It tends to happen when designer, star and script are well-matched.<br /><br><br />The first photo is a Gilbert Adrian design for Katherine Hepburn in "Philadelphia Story" (1940). Adrian achieved notice through his strong creative genius. He was able to generate originality apart from the Paris scene, an achievement that was important in establishing Hollywood glamour.<br /><br><br /><a href="http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/?action=view&current=colberthappened1nite.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/colberthappened1nite.jpg"></a><br />This striped top is memorable for its amazing patternmaking technique where the stripe and seamlines create a novel approach to a very simple silhouette. I have found that every patternmaker I know can remember the first time she/he saw this costume. Then of course, there is Clark Gable's costume, or lack of, to consider.<br /><br><br /><a href="http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/?action=view&current=bringingupbaby-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/bringingupbaby-1.jpg"></a><br />"Bringing Up Baby" (Howard Greer gowns, 1938), put Katherine Hepburn into more remarkable gowns that support her airy character.<br /><br><br /><a href="http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/?action=view&current=thewomen-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/thewomen-1.jpg"></a><br />"The Women" (Gilbert Adrian, 1938), is a huge reminder of how a costume designer can affect and reflect their time. Rosalind Russell's costumes are hilarious, yet they do depict a style trend of that day. Joan Crawford, by now an Adrian devotee, wears the sliky bias cuts that helped to make her famous. But don't miss the fashion show that is part of the plot, where surrealism takes a fashion turn on stage (in a nod to Schiaparelli).<br /><br />There are many more important movies to absorb in the pre-WWII era. Not to be missed are the musicals, where Rogers and Astaire sport fabulous costumes and wonderful settings. The list below is only the tip of the iceberg. I selected easy to locate, well known movies with important gowns or costumes. I am sure that you can add to this listing, as it is short, but sweet:<br /><br><br />It Happened One Night—1934: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0025316/<br />Claudette Colbert, Clark Gable<br />Costume design: Robert Kalloch<br />The big fashion item here is her striped top. Try to solve how it is cut.<br /><br />My Man Godfrey—1936: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0028010/<br />Carole Lombard, William Powell<br />Bias cut….<br /><br />Gold Diggers of 1933: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024069/fullcredits#cast<br />Orry-Kelly costumes<br />Stage and fashion costumes<br /><br />Bringing Up Baby—1938: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0029947/<br />Katherine Hepburn, Cary Grant<br />Howard Greer costumes<br />Hepburn wears some nifty bias cut dresses<br /><br />The Thin Man—1934: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0025878/<br />Myrna Loy, William Powell<br />Dolly Tree, wardrobe<br />This is the beginning of a multiple movie series. Myrna Loy’s dresses are always a treat. Her character is a foil for the drama, and the costumes are dramatic and often witty.<br /><br />Philadelphia Story—1940: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0032904/<br />Katherine Hepburn, Cary Grant<br />Glibert Adrian, costumes<br />The gowns reflect Greek drapery influences, with lots of bias cut crepe.<br />Don’t overlook Hepburn’s crazy hat she wears into town.<br /><br />The Women—1938: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0032143/<br />Glibert Adrian, costumes<br />Joan Crawford, Norma Shearer, Rosalind Russell<br />This has so much fashion, it’s hard to take in one viewing.<br />Lots of bias cut and ‘gay nineties’ influences. Don’t miss Roz Russell’s witty bustles and hats.<br /><br />Dinner at Eight—1933: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0023948/<br />Jean Harlow<br />Gilbert Adrian, gowns<br />Bias cut<br /><br />Carefree—1938: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0029971/<br />Ginger Rogers, Fred Astaire<br />Howard Greer, gowns<br />Bias cut dance gowns and other fashion items for Ginger<br /><br />Shall We Dance—1937: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0029546/<br />Ginger Rogers, Fred Astaire<br />Irene Gibbons, gowns<br />Ginger wears a variety of fashion outfits and dance gowns<br /><br />Flying Down to Rio—1933: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024025/<br />Dolores Del Rio, Fred Astaire<br />Irene Gibbons, gowns (uncredited)<br />This has some ‘casual’ looks, and nightclub scenes in it.<br /><br />His Girl Friday—1940: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0032599/<br />Rosalind Russell, Cary Grant<br />Robert Kalloch, gowns<br />Suits, this is an early display of the suits that women will wear through the 40’s.

Movie Costumes of the 1930's and early 1940's

When movies added sound, the medium took off. What followed was a few decades of prolific output of all types of film. This put a huge bur...

Read more »