Vintage Details: Glibert Adrian: Suit Jacket c. 1947: part 2

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib-3KQ1ili53NmJGsdo7dWOrXIA7Vp67ozXPEI1TvSLWZzZ-cGGMgUu5YC0UpaE6I2j9-ow90Tzby6-kA2u9VbDc5KaWFRXx5dDxpIKlzjW5R6HLXRWfUR46BoipEFOUlzjbmGJsS7Zl67/s1600/Slide1.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642779770795792530" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib-3KQ1ili53NmJGsdo7dWOrXIA7Vp67ozXPEI1TvSLWZzZ-cGGMgUu5YC0UpaE6I2j9-ow90Tzby6-kA2u9VbDc5KaWFRXx5dDxpIKlzjW5R6HLXRWfUR46BoipEFOUlzjbmGJsS7Zl67/s400/Slide1.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 286px; height: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Seeing how a vintage jacket was designed to be worn can help to understand its style and silhouette. This original photo of Adrian’s black wool jacket from 1947 shows the model wearing dark gloves. At that time, hair and hats were often small and fit close to the head for a more modern look, although long hair was still seen, especially on a younger customer.<br /><br /><br /><br />This jacket was selected by the regional fashion magazine "California Stylist" along with only three other styles to represent Adrian’s designs for 1947. The design must have been an influential and popular model from his collection that year (Calif. Stylist, 1950).<br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsDTY1z8EdYt1uvXvfC1y8wl5m6SJann0VbicMKcuQI5TFV-qxCZhUmdqiTHwzG5AmAb47S0XC_VipY83EGJcJSUkOD62qg_an9kMltU_Hv6M-PvFuUucISfb0abwopbuycrmIWyKTD3TB/s1600/Slide6.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642779598792901938" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsDTY1z8EdYt1uvXvfC1y8wl5m6SJann0VbicMKcuQI5TFV-qxCZhUmdqiTHwzG5AmAb47S0XC_VipY83EGJcJSUkOD62qg_an9kMltU_Hv6M-PvFuUucISfb0abwopbuycrmIWyKTD3TB/s400/Slide6.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />The ‘tubular suit’ as shown in "Vogue" magazine, April 1947, was usually seen with a straight and narrow skirt that is below the knee in length. <br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_vgjzHfp18d53wwValvY0E7L1fj3oP5ptbpaE8y3wMFMhXOYhL98Xvt5ZtobY_02WKY4DAqWhCVl_RuxNUTPG7KrzI7o9YXsfCQSk6bbsQoQCI4hVSa2Pv7_EnLiIuzSA2FBFO1HmHydu/s1600/Slide2.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642780022561190626" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_vgjzHfp18d53wwValvY0E7L1fj3oP5ptbpaE8y3wMFMhXOYhL98Xvt5ZtobY_02WKY4DAqWhCVl_RuxNUTPG7KrzI7o9YXsfCQSk6bbsQoQCI4hVSa2Pv7_EnLiIuzSA2FBFO1HmHydu/s400/Slide2.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 255px;" /></a><br /><br />In a study of the garment structure, the shoulders are structured with ¾ inch thick shoulder pads. Although this seems extreme for 1947, the shoulder width does not extend dramatically from the natural shoulder width. It is evident from close examination from the outside, that the upper torso is heavily hand tailored. The lower front of the body, sleeve hems and peplum are left soft and un-reinforced with heavy interfacing. <br /><br /><br /><br />Hand sewing is evident in the bound buttonholes, and patch pocket applications. The faille lining is hand sewn to the facings. Overall, the methods used are traditional for women’s tailoring. This suit would have been produced in a downtown Los Angeles factory, rather than custom made at his Beverly Hills salon.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">(click on the photos to see them enlarged)<br /><br />Please contact me if you would like to use these photos, thank you.</span><br /><br />

Vintage Details: Glibert Adrian: Suit Jacket c. 1947: part 2

Seeing how a vintage jacket was designed to be worn can help to understand its style and silhouette. This original photo of Adrian’s black ...

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Movie Costumes of the 1930's and early 1940's

<a href="http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/?action=view&current=hepburnphilstory.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/hepburnphilstory.jpg"></a><br />When movies added sound, the medium took off. What followed was a few decades of prolific output of all types of film. This put a huge burden on the costume and wardrobe shop, which cranked out countless styles for the next few decades. Out of this wealth, there are some memorable standouts. It tends to happen when designer, star and script are well-matched.<br /><br><br />The first photo is a Gilbert Adrian design for Katherine Hepburn in "Philadelphia Story" (1940). Adrian achieved notice through his strong creative genius. He was able to generate originality apart from the Paris scene, an achievement that was important in establishing Hollywood glamour.<br /><br><br /><a href="http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/?action=view&current=colberthappened1nite.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/colberthappened1nite.jpg"></a><br />This striped top is memorable for its amazing patternmaking technique where the stripe and seamlines create a novel approach to a very simple silhouette. I have found that every patternmaker I know can remember the first time she/he saw this costume. Then of course, there is Clark Gable's costume, or lack of, to consider.<br /><br><br /><a href="http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/?action=view&current=bringingupbaby-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/bringingupbaby-1.jpg"></a><br />"Bringing Up Baby" (Howard Greer gowns, 1938), put Katherine Hepburn into more remarkable gowns that support her airy character.<br /><br><br /><a href="http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/?action=view&current=thewomen-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/thewomen-1.jpg"></a><br />"The Women" (Gilbert Adrian, 1938), is a huge reminder of how a costume designer can affect and reflect their time. Rosalind Russell's costumes are hilarious, yet they do depict a style trend of that day. Joan Crawford, by now an Adrian devotee, wears the sliky bias cuts that helped to make her famous. But don't miss the fashion show that is part of the plot, where surrealism takes a fashion turn on stage (in a nod to Schiaparelli).<br /><br />There are many more important movies to absorb in the pre-WWII era. Not to be missed are the musicals, where Rogers and Astaire sport fabulous costumes and wonderful settings. The list below is only the tip of the iceberg. I selected easy to locate, well known movies with important gowns or costumes. I am sure that you can add to this listing, as it is short, but sweet:<br /><br><br />It Happened One Night—1934: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0025316/<br />Claudette Colbert, Clark Gable<br />Costume design: Robert Kalloch<br />The big fashion item here is her striped top. Try to solve how it is cut.<br /><br />My Man Godfrey—1936: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0028010/<br />Carole Lombard, William Powell<br />Bias cut….<br /><br />Gold Diggers of 1933: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024069/fullcredits#cast<br />Orry-Kelly costumes<br />Stage and fashion costumes<br /><br />Bringing Up Baby—1938: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0029947/<br />Katherine Hepburn, Cary Grant<br />Howard Greer costumes<br />Hepburn wears some nifty bias cut dresses<br /><br />The Thin Man—1934: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0025878/<br />Myrna Loy, William Powell<br />Dolly Tree, wardrobe<br />This is the beginning of a multiple movie series. Myrna Loy’s dresses are always a treat. Her character is a foil for the drama, and the costumes are dramatic and often witty.<br /><br />Philadelphia Story—1940: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0032904/<br />Katherine Hepburn, Cary Grant<br />Glibert Adrian, costumes<br />The gowns reflect Greek drapery influences, with lots of bias cut crepe.<br />Don’t overlook Hepburn’s crazy hat she wears into town.<br /><br />The Women—1938: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0032143/<br />Glibert Adrian, costumes<br />Joan Crawford, Norma Shearer, Rosalind Russell<br />This has so much fashion, it’s hard to take in one viewing.<br />Lots of bias cut and ‘gay nineties’ influences. Don’t miss Roz Russell’s witty bustles and hats.<br /><br />Dinner at Eight—1933: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0023948/<br />Jean Harlow<br />Gilbert Adrian, gowns<br />Bias cut<br /><br />Carefree—1938: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0029971/<br />Ginger Rogers, Fred Astaire<br />Howard Greer, gowns<br />Bias cut dance gowns and other fashion items for Ginger<br /><br />Shall We Dance—1937: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0029546/<br />Ginger Rogers, Fred Astaire<br />Irene Gibbons, gowns<br />Ginger wears a variety of fashion outfits and dance gowns<br /><br />Flying Down to Rio—1933: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024025/<br />Dolores Del Rio, Fred Astaire<br />Irene Gibbons, gowns (uncredited)<br />This has some ‘casual’ looks, and nightclub scenes in it.<br /><br />His Girl Friday—1940: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0032599/<br />Rosalind Russell, Cary Grant<br />Robert Kalloch, gowns<br />Suits, this is an early display of the suits that women will wear through the 40’s.

Movie Costumes of the 1930's and early 1940's

When movies added sound, the medium took off. What followed was a few decades of prolific output of all types of film. This put a huge bur...

Read more »