Elie Saab: COUTURE, F/W 2012-2013

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixiCFfXB_0BrJYFTjjA9iZ4wd9FC3uMevR7-a0SQpQA6RhGC4AsFVE_coNhLHop61Xy937aN8DuvcIN3zwiK3AI_aUClfR38tohb32lOhg1CAk2aZ7D42D5V0HXUvwl7nj-qEVGukSpYTl/s1600/Elie+Saad.+Fash+illust.2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixiCFfXB_0BrJYFTjjA9iZ4wd9FC3uMevR7-a0SQpQA6RhGC4AsFVE_coNhLHop61Xy937aN8DuvcIN3zwiK3AI_aUClfR38tohb32lOhg1CAk2aZ7D42D5V0HXUvwl7nj-qEVGukSpYTl/s400/Elie+Saad.+Fash+illust.2.jpg" width="352" /></a></div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxtlZOo7FuAjfxHYTM5e9-xlu-zgJdSFkRXFhy2FTaHum1tfJyIDF1wuQ1vZksiFfJdC1qyiAeA9ZcT9iFt01c3mWx8YcbO94TVP_T9J89DQSlRFabhFWuQW-bLWw_LpMrChg6gauqrL_q/s1600/Elie+Saab.+fash.illust.3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxtlZOo7FuAjfxHYTM5e9-xlu-zgJdSFkRXFhy2FTaHum1tfJyIDF1wuQ1vZksiFfJdC1qyiAeA9ZcT9iFt01c3mWx8YcbO94TVP_T9J89DQSlRFabhFWuQW-bLWw_LpMrChg6gauqrL_q/s400/Elie+Saab.+fash.illust.3.jpg" width="300" /></a></div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcZHHHQoVwtomhbQijNvP29_YyPm59bwv0GwXfiBiX1uvIefIXL5gmDKxA9AGE-rGydgmMQJ9bcWREMR0sh-x-KaGMpZuP0PbzpPy0BqaDjispITyhI2bWt4eaT1G7Tu3snwxo9yS2YJ2z/s1600/Elie+Saab.+fash.illust.4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcZHHHQoVwtomhbQijNvP29_YyPm59bwv0GwXfiBiX1uvIefIXL5gmDKxA9AGE-rGydgmMQJ9bcWREMR0sh-x-KaGMpZuP0PbzpPy0BqaDjispITyhI2bWt4eaT1G7Tu3snwxo9yS2YJ2z/s400/Elie+Saab.+fash.illust.4.jpg" width="323" /></a></div><br><br>The current Fall Winter couture collection from <a href="http://www.eliesaab.com/en/#/en/haute-couture/fw-2012-2013"><b>Elie Saab </b></a>is worth a mention. The texture, drape and fabric quality speak of a level of couture we seldom see. Rich and luxe, the silhouettes are so elegant and refined. <br><br>A trip to his website is a treat. The couture show has a "detail" view for each garment, giving us a rare chance to see each gown closely. That is where these wonderful fashion illustrations can be found. <br><br>The illustrations are so much fun to see. It seems like we seldom get an opportunity to see both sketch and gown at the same time, but here we have both! I have included a few for you to enjoy--but you'll want to catch the rest <a href="http://www.eliesaab.com/en/#/en/haute-couture/fw-2012-2013"><b>HERE <br><br><a href="http://www.eliesaab.com/en/#/en/home">Elie Saab: Home, and opening video</a><br><br><a href="http://www.eliesaab.com/en/#/en/home">Elie Saab: biography</a>

Elie Saab: COUTURE, F/W 2012-2013

The current Fall Winter couture collection from Elie Saab is worth a mention. The texture, drape and fabric quality speak of a level of c...

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Vintage Details: Glibert Adrian: Suit Jacket c. 1947: part 2

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib-3KQ1ili53NmJGsdo7dWOrXIA7Vp67ozXPEI1TvSLWZzZ-cGGMgUu5YC0UpaE6I2j9-ow90Tzby6-kA2u9VbDc5KaWFRXx5dDxpIKlzjW5R6HLXRWfUR46BoipEFOUlzjbmGJsS7Zl67/s1600/Slide1.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642779770795792530" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib-3KQ1ili53NmJGsdo7dWOrXIA7Vp67ozXPEI1TvSLWZzZ-cGGMgUu5YC0UpaE6I2j9-ow90Tzby6-kA2u9VbDc5KaWFRXx5dDxpIKlzjW5R6HLXRWfUR46BoipEFOUlzjbmGJsS7Zl67/s400/Slide1.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 286px; height: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Seeing how a vintage jacket was designed to be worn can help to understand its style and silhouette. This original photo of Adrian’s black wool jacket from 1947 shows the model wearing dark gloves. At that time, hair and hats were often small and fit close to the head for a more modern look, although long hair was still seen, especially on a younger customer.<br /><br /><br /><br />This jacket was selected by the regional fashion magazine "California Stylist" along with only three other styles to represent Adrian’s designs for 1947. The design must have been an influential and popular model from his collection that year (Calif. Stylist, 1950).<br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsDTY1z8EdYt1uvXvfC1y8wl5m6SJann0VbicMKcuQI5TFV-qxCZhUmdqiTHwzG5AmAb47S0XC_VipY83EGJcJSUkOD62qg_an9kMltU_Hv6M-PvFuUucISfb0abwopbuycrmIWyKTD3TB/s1600/Slide6.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642779598792901938" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsDTY1z8EdYt1uvXvfC1y8wl5m6SJann0VbicMKcuQI5TFV-qxCZhUmdqiTHwzG5AmAb47S0XC_VipY83EGJcJSUkOD62qg_an9kMltU_Hv6M-PvFuUucISfb0abwopbuycrmIWyKTD3TB/s400/Slide6.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />The ‘tubular suit’ as shown in "Vogue" magazine, April 1947, was usually seen with a straight and narrow skirt that is below the knee in length. <br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_vgjzHfp18d53wwValvY0E7L1fj3oP5ptbpaE8y3wMFMhXOYhL98Xvt5ZtobY_02WKY4DAqWhCVl_RuxNUTPG7KrzI7o9YXsfCQSk6bbsQoQCI4hVSa2Pv7_EnLiIuzSA2FBFO1HmHydu/s1600/Slide2.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642780022561190626" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_vgjzHfp18d53wwValvY0E7L1fj3oP5ptbpaE8y3wMFMhXOYhL98Xvt5ZtobY_02WKY4DAqWhCVl_RuxNUTPG7KrzI7o9YXsfCQSk6bbsQoQCI4hVSa2Pv7_EnLiIuzSA2FBFO1HmHydu/s400/Slide2.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 255px;" /></a><br /><br />In a study of the garment structure, the shoulders are structured with ¾ inch thick shoulder pads. Although this seems extreme for 1947, the shoulder width does not extend dramatically from the natural shoulder width. It is evident from close examination from the outside, that the upper torso is heavily hand tailored. The lower front of the body, sleeve hems and peplum are left soft and un-reinforced with heavy interfacing. <br /><br /><br /><br />Hand sewing is evident in the bound buttonholes, and patch pocket applications. The faille lining is hand sewn to the facings. Overall, the methods used are traditional for women’s tailoring. This suit would have been produced in a downtown Los Angeles factory, rather than custom made at his Beverly Hills salon.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">(click on the photos to see them enlarged)<br /><br />Please contact me if you would like to use these photos, thank you.</span><br /><br />

Vintage Details: Glibert Adrian: Suit Jacket c. 1947: part 2

Seeing how a vintage jacket was designed to be worn can help to understand its style and silhouette. This original photo of Adrian’s black ...

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Asher Fabrics: Couture Fashion, 1958

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxfYW8og1gFeUJ2iulWhTsENax7wfoZwfHli9b5MOEXlDIpN963sXalj4LBGLY25rF8qlGYQ_azN1AiV1AZRwC5Kn38n65kHnLNrigHBNtbU898QIqfIuKAszqqJoFk65rWwCk-YjGpcqX/s1600/London+Winter+1958-1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5643352165051574802" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxfYW8og1gFeUJ2iulWhTsENax7wfoZwfHli9b5MOEXlDIpN963sXalj4LBGLY25rF8qlGYQ_azN1AiV1AZRwC5Kn38n65kHnLNrigHBNtbU898QIqfIuKAszqqJoFk65rWwCk-YjGpcqX/s400/London+Winter+1958-1.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif9ptTMCIdJWX9vXzJpr4l0Y-vUsmnoITVf49j2j17DGDoHKmTKAp9EOXcStsjFWoNjZFEbc3we8oAhx-XJS6r1aWefX7AHnqgBQT2dJmAappT0ggPVoouD9mPHbVWUA8nFD-MUpywVFyn/s1600/Florence+Winter+1958-1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5643351931190044018" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif9ptTMCIdJWX9vXzJpr4l0Y-vUsmnoITVf49j2j17DGDoHKmTKAp9EOXcStsjFWoNjZFEbc3we8oAhx-XJS6r1aWefX7AHnqgBQT2dJmAappT0ggPVoouD9mPHbVWUA8nFD-MUpywVFyn/s400/Florence+Winter+1958-1.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ-VP4eXRYGabU3-ZsB6-ct2VCTdjfuasADn5OE7azE_00oUWbaxTrRQNNCLwiC2otFSyPIZ2YKU9XLMJNB8bzbak8CqryWooUiVMZfEdqr2wt6PuGw2WKc8-tfj36tdHRqyZzR8LeGeBy/s1600/Florence+Spring+1958-1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5643351699763068818" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ-VP4eXRYGabU3-ZsB6-ct2VCTdjfuasADn5OE7azE_00oUWbaxTrRQNNCLwiC2otFSyPIZ2YKU9XLMJNB8bzbak8CqryWooUiVMZfEdqr2wt6PuGw2WKc8-tfj36tdHRqyZzR8LeGeBy/s400/Florence+Spring+1958-1.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2icnAB9baPuGIIUBmmwWIP1REjem94F6E_UmFbdbcPuOEZ_j3a7nGQfgnMKF17cHeqPsfHMXQ1oy53oNZwWk5OC-HNgYPlOE4GFPv1SzLP6ZqlBLvqjQ5XwKUjURcihj8H-MPMQJFjHbV/s1600/Paris+Winter+1958-1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5643351471812536754" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2icnAB9baPuGIIUBmmwWIP1REjem94F6E_UmFbdbcPuOEZ_j3a7nGQfgnMKF17cHeqPsfHMXQ1oy53oNZwWk5OC-HNgYPlOE4GFPv1SzLP6ZqlBLvqjQ5XwKUjURcihj8H-MPMQJFjHbV/s400/Paris+Winter+1958-1.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWfYeeZDrnSzWFABfN_HWSpPAs-j60PawctXGkyt8Sm23ONH8AmecPnvK6uSd0wZ9zsOgYv8nBM1nEMcf9DiQeCl2fHQCKBfhAcxdig0kbsFygPAp4fyLJ2y6XdgQuloa69-spvmHmA4F1/s1600/Paris+Spring+1958-1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5643351153552449682" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWfYeeZDrnSzWFABfN_HWSpPAs-j60PawctXGkyt8Sm23ONH8AmecPnvK6uSd0wZ9zsOgYv8nBM1nEMcf9DiQeCl2fHQCKBfhAcxdig0kbsFygPAp4fyLJ2y6XdgQuloa69-spvmHmA4F1/s400/Paris+Spring+1958-1.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" /></a><br /><br />Ascher, London has posted five couture fashion portfolios from 1958. These scrapbooks with photos showcase designs using the original textiles by Zika Ascher, including mohair fabrics that Ascher was developing. It is wonderful to look through each collection. They captures the couture look from that year so well.<br /><br /><br /><br />Also on this site is a gorgeous gallery of <a href="http://ascherstudio.com/gallery/190"><span style="font-weight:bold;">Ascher Scarves</span></a> from the mid-1940's that were designed by known artists of the day.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://ascherstudio.com/gallery/193"><span style="font-weight:bold;">Ascher Fabric Couture Collections, 1958</span></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Haute Couture, Paris: Spring and Winter<br /><br />Cardin<br /><br />Desses<br /><br />Givenchy<br /><br />Griffe<br /><br />Heim<br /><br />Lanvin-Castillo<br /><br />Laroche<br /><br />Matta<br /><br />Riviere<br /><br />Rouff<br /><br /><br /><br />Haute Couture, London: Winter<br /><br />Cavanagh<br /><br />Cardin<br /><br />Paterson<br /><br />Riviere<br /><br /><br /><br />Alta Moda, Florence: Spring and Winter<br /><br />Antonelli<br /><br />Baratta<br /><br />Capucci<br /><br />Carosa<br /><br />De Luca<br /><br />Fabiani<br /><br />Simonetta<br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">(a special thanks to <a href="http://bonbonatelier.blogspot.com/2011/08/ascher-studio.html"><span style="font-weight:bold;">BonBon Atelier</span></a> for reminding me of this collection)</span><br /><br />

Asher Fabrics: Couture Fashion, 1958

Ascher, London has posted five couture fashion portfolios from 1958. These scrapbooks with photos showcase designs using the original texti...

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Balenciaga in San Francisco: the de Young exhibition

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt2hxfJieQQbyO_Gxzqo1dmtgwKhTPAkpPE7m2cZbkI-rmaIBm2etCioCVlwsh53JslShDtJQFc69twa5NnmF7SkaSdMEIZVRfLVe0fUDoo-lL6fFjDUiKRDPvG7mgXvZz-4Fw3mtWp5XX/s1600/Slide1.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="Balenciaga" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589513850287316258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt2hxfJieQQbyO_Gxzqo1dmtgwKhTPAkpPE7m2cZbkI-rmaIBm2etCioCVlwsh53JslShDtJQFc69twa5NnmF7SkaSdMEIZVRfLVe0fUDoo-lL6fFjDUiKRDPvG7mgXvZz-4Fw3mtWp5XX/s400/Slide1.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 497px; height: 600px;" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkZR7mQpU2Kcj0sOqnwmdB9DxBTIA6eqN3pa6qLaAWGpcMscpTor7vms8iH4HfuXO9vca1_zyDjcZJS7rNsJR3joHp9e4hPw0VjiFBEibjyx1jE3AsR6hHi3y0NpeFiCFYGmvnNKiGR3u6/s1600/Slide2.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="Balenciaga" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589513784239197458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkZR7mQpU2Kcj0sOqnwmdB9DxBTIA6eqN3pa6qLaAWGpcMscpTor7vms8iH4HfuXO9vca1_zyDjcZJS7rNsJR3joHp9e4hPw0VjiFBEibjyx1jE3AsR6hHi3y0NpeFiCFYGmvnNKiGR3u6/s400/Slide2.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px; height: 348px;" /></a>We were in San Francisco this weekend for the "Balenciaga and Spain" opening lecture and symposium at the de Young museum. This exhibition is nothing short of fabulous! All of his cast of characters are present, some are like these familiar photos: old friends. Other pieces are new to public viewing. What makes the collection so special is the presentation of his work, from the mid-years focus on embellishment into his later explorations on form and drape.<br /> <br />The lectures helped to pull the theme together, noting the inspiration he took from Spanish apparel and regional costume. With a career that spanned most of the mid-years of the 20th century, it is interesting to view his transition in silhouette and texture, while retaining a singular viewpoint: that of a Spaniard in the world of couture.<br /><br />This is an exhibition not to be missed by anyone who values the history of fashion, couture and pattern design.<br /><br />The de Young press release with a summary of the exhibition: <a href="http://deyoung.famsf.org/pressroom/pressreleases/balenciaga-and-spain-opens-march-26-2011-de-young-museum-san-francisco"><span style="font-weight:bold;">HERE</span></a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Balenciaga-Spain-Hamish-Bowles/dp/0847836460/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpt_1"><span style="font-weight:bold;">Exhibition catalog</span><br /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://fora.tv/conference/Balenciaga_and_Spain"><span style="font-weight:bold;">VIEW the Symposium lecture (there is a short Preview available)</span></a>

Balenciaga in San Francisco: the de Young exhibition

We were in San Francisco this weekend for the "Balenciaga and Spain" opening lecture and symposium at the de Young museum. This e...

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