caftan pattern: 1950's vintage fashion

Showing posts with label 1950's vintage fashion. Show all posts

A Closer View: Navy Silk Sheath, c. 1955

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide1-1_zps10c6724a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="415" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide1-1_zps10c6724a.jpg" width="550" /></a></div> One of the best ways to learn fine dress making is to study examples of the craft. This silk sheath dress from the mid-1950's is a great example. It is clearly a custom made dress, with many hand sewn details. By looking at it in detail, we can learn more about the design and drape of this wrapped 'sarong style' dress, along with tips on how to sew a feather weight dress like this that holds its shape well when worn. This gorgeous navy dress of silk twill has a blue floral pattern that is probably Italian silk. It is backed by lining that is sewn 'in one' with the outer fashion fabric. I use the term 'flat lining' for this process. The lining is also used as a base to hold the drapery in place. It is probable that the customer had a fitting wearing the lining, while the dress designer wrapped the silk fashion fabric around the body, pleating it into the side seams as shown below. The right and left sides are patterned and sewn differently, creating the signature sarong effect. This sarong skirt is sewn into the sheath side seam on the right, but it wraps around the left without a side seam, hanging open at the center back. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide2-1_zps0ca83a2f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="415" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide2-1_zps0ca83a2f.jpg" width="550" /></a></div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide3-1_zps8bf2b4af.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="415" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide3-1_zps8bf2b4af.jpg" width="550" /></a></div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide4-1_zpsbc84d929.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="415" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide4-1_zpsbc84d929.jpg" width="550" /></a></div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide5-1_zps01acfeb3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="415" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide5-1_zps01acfeb3.jpg" width="550" /></a></div> Looking inside the dress we can see the construction techniques. These are classic points. The scarf weight fashion fabric was 'backed' by a lining. The two layers were stitched together, then cut with pinking shears. When pressed open, the stitching shows clearly that this was 'flat lined'. The transfer marks used to place the darts shows as little white dots. These would have been part of the custom or couture process. Seam tape is sewn along the waistline seam to stablize it and keep it from ripping apart. This tape was also used to edge the hem. Using hem tape is an easy way to provide a clean edge that is easy to sew through. The bodice of this dress was cut with princess seam lines in the back, while the front had conventional darts. The fashion fabric was draped on top of this and sewn in place. This same lining was used in the skirt, but only to the knee level. This would keep the hips smooth, but allow the hem area to drape nicely. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide6-1_zps8f338eb6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="415" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide6-1_zps8f338eb6.jpg" width="550" /></a></div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide7-1_zps1ebf9ff7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="415" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide7-1_zps1ebf9ff7.jpg" width="550" /></a></div> This wonderful dress is listed in my <a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/123254798/reservedsilk-wrap-sheath-in-navy-silk">shop on Etsy</a> where you will find more photos of it. If you like this style, look for designs by Dorothy O'Hara, Helen Rose, and Peggy Hunt among others from that era who specialized in draped dresses. (this dress does not have a label)

A Closer View: Navy Silk Sheath, c. 1955

One of the best ways to learn fine dress making is to study examples of the craft. This silk sheath dress from the mid-1950's is a grea...

8:36 PM

Back to School Fashions, 1959

Back to School Fashions, 1959

Gotta love how the 1950's and 60's were so excited about 'back to school' and fall fashions in general. That was always the...

8:13 AM

Cole of California: 1950's Swimsuits

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtpc1LWiWI5yOZcfB3OS54q0qsj_ZjkDyfY8PLoK3emfU-hrMkhT9eL17mFdSRIXGgoWDjxd7hVby5ZA7hIRCtteRrQ_jQh_GMWGtQ8PMy-8xLkI1cfqyQoloEWHnnXQ3ONHr96USa5BsH/s1600/IMG_1183.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtpc1LWiWI5yOZcfB3OS54q0qsj_ZjkDyfY8PLoK3emfU-hrMkhT9eL17mFdSRIXGgoWDjxd7hVby5ZA7hIRCtteRrQ_jQh_GMWGtQ8PMy-8xLkI1cfqyQoloEWHnnXQ3ONHr96USa5BsH/s400/IMG_1183.JPG" width="440" /></a></div> <div style="text-align: center;">Cole of California, c. 1952 swimwear with elastic stretch. </div><div style="text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBVjOnZQ7NC9ymo_ASoG385fOO6vZV7-YO784qxPw3RfxPPxW6AJENKXiib_L0hIFNKWytYTk_BQJvDLmmQGzBVougE4xbJqzSHEU_KtfNjYGS-mQ5Fm-uEL3osYJGeJ6yaHsI-X0pxL2H/s1600/IMG_1180.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBVjOnZQ7NC9ymo_ASoG385fOO6vZV7-YO784qxPw3RfxPPxW6AJENKXiib_L0hIFNKWytYTk_BQJvDLmmQGzBVougE4xbJqzSHEU_KtfNjYGS-mQ5Fm-uEL3osYJGeJ6yaHsI-X0pxL2H/s400/IMG_1180.JPG" width="440" /></a></div> Doesn't this set look pin-up perfect? For the first swim suit of the season these styles are great. A bit covered up against the spring chill, but uncovered enough to catch a few rays!

Cole of California: 1950's Swimsuits

Cole of California, c. 1952 swimwear with elastic stretch. Doesn't this set look pin-up perfect? For the first swim suit of the season...

8:28 AM

Spring Has Sprung

Spring Has Sprung

Time to pull out the spring florals.

11:20 PM

Asian Inspired: Bonnie Cashin Coat, June 1950

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirG83Ik7GE_rIVF9GYw9seU7qbGobTUS40f8t-gnQ2_PQFUubrJMQ3NN7kCseUyH4jSlNiL42clBJB3WHm5L2F5ncSNmUN40l6-8PBapYAgtF1w_W5SKOoOrbAySn-h0oW8U0rDnqsQYii/s1600/IMG_9860.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5695995650701713762" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirG83Ik7GE_rIVF9GYw9seU7qbGobTUS40f8t-gnQ2_PQFUubrJMQ3NN7kCseUyH4jSlNiL42clBJB3WHm5L2F5ncSNmUN40l6-8PBapYAgtF1w_W5SKOoOrbAySn-h0oW8U0rDnqsQYii/s400/IMG_9860.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 354px; height: 500px;" /></a>This Asian inspired coat is a very early example of the direction that Bonnie Cashin would explore in the decades to come: simple "T" shaped coat with narrow mandarin collar. Here she uses linen and embellishes it with frog closures in a design for Adler and Adler. Later those frogs would become her signature brass twist locks. description from "Vogue", June, 1950: "Sawed-off Chinese coolie coat--new length: white Irish linen, frog closings: three-quarter length sleeves. A summer coat with more than one life to share. First and foremost, a life with a bathing suit; then, perhaps, over a slender skirt in town, slacks at home. Coat by Bonnie Cashin, $30, At Lord & Taylor; Garfinckel's; Neiman-Marcus." <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1VKD9E0GpOJaOs1bw8ybMmf9pKzc7u1Fy6tDCR9fstFdYgX2u_1iDeZVGoH81JIgMxixnDugUVm4S03FG5HhCEQl3gdQER91wHuwFf9GbPFrMJW3CxDMzvqxodF6q4reuPyItl1rBtibK/s1600/Cashin.+chinesejacket.1950.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5696003344632657458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1VKD9E0GpOJaOs1bw8ybMmf9pKzc7u1Fy6tDCR9fstFdYgX2u_1iDeZVGoH81JIgMxixnDugUVm4S03FG5HhCEQl3gdQER91wHuwFf9GbPFrMJW3CxDMzvqxodF6q4reuPyItl1rBtibK/s400/Cashin.+chinesejacket.1950.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 354px; height: 435px;" /></a> This photo of Bonnie Cashin shows her wearing the same coat, worn casually with pushed up sleeves (a style she favored). The second image shown here is from the <a href=" http://unitproj.library.ucla.edu/special/cashin/leather.htm">UCLA Special Collections website on Bonnie Cashin</a>

Asian Inspired: Bonnie Cashin Coat, June 1950

This Asian inspired coat is a very early example of the direction that Bonnie Cashin would explore in the decades to come: simple "T...

5:31 AM

Preview: 1950's dresses

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF1_wCNNRdp855fIx8PCHNSaTlzSR2sN8jYngO9MrUPLs4uatP05-sKQKAFEBMkynzL7q0xxros7xShCq53Khe6ZBvAjUK3V2vjYfHHjPWhcj9XeANybGkJKkIa6JTaZeGTab2Il19ODRm/s1600/IMG_8286.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5677826498981170242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF1_wCNNRdp855fIx8PCHNSaTlzSR2sN8jYngO9MrUPLs4uatP05-sKQKAFEBMkynzL7q0xxros7xShCq53Khe6ZBvAjUK3V2vjYfHHjPWhcj9XeANybGkJKkIa6JTaZeGTab2Il19ODRm/s400/IMG_8286.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 257px; height: 400px;" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZfKAcUaMHOKaSg6Kp1Hm_EmOsUhPiSuGTmVav5xrIZ5E7nEsMaUjttIM2nGO_0FPltIjxsuGyQrXI5HkwgOclQfWP1fApHg_3QsGNbzSk_EAE6bBhZjSWamm9JHPHRCT5SF0dtBNhsLhH/s1600/IMG_8193.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5677826365053174706" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZfKAcUaMHOKaSg6Kp1Hm_EmOsUhPiSuGTmVav5xrIZ5E7nEsMaUjttIM2nGO_0FPltIjxsuGyQrXI5HkwgOclQfWP1fApHg_3QsGNbzSk_EAE6bBhZjSWamm9JHPHRCT5SF0dtBNhsLhH/s400/IMG_8193.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 233px; height: 400px;" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXsL9ZHc9UwUQFTEWlu6ZWEqSnl6pt3Wd3t9zucCqx0TU2WCc2sJV881QYnD_55ukXdMuxs_qPvcWlirNmtqG_bi-a-31IR7FcIJ67qJ2kT649UFjrKM3e_zMi0wMrQYLPN9vlmsbqjaKb/s1600/IMG_8241.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5677826260982790818" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXsL9ZHc9UwUQFTEWlu6ZWEqSnl6pt3Wd3t9zucCqx0TU2WCc2sJV881QYnD_55ukXdMuxs_qPvcWlirNmtqG_bi-a-31IR7FcIJ67qJ2kT649UFjrKM3e_zMi0wMrQYLPN9vlmsbqjaKb/s400/IMG_8241.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 265px; height: 400px;" /></a> Here is a preview of a few "fresh vintage" dresses that will debut at the pop-up shop for Pintuck Style this coming Saturday, Nov.26. More info on this sale: <a href=" http://pintuckstyle.blogspot.com/2011/11/pintucks-pop-up-shop-moulton-trading.html">HERE</a>. Drop by/ say hi!

Preview: 1950's dresses

Here is a preview of a few "fresh vintage" dresses that will debut at the pop-up shop for Pintuck Style this coming Saturday, Nov....

6:24 AM

Vintage Details: Gilbert Adrian: Suit Jacket c. 1947: Part 1

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8YD5462RO_sn3qp4VS1Cuv0bRJ-lcmz5wmuygG5YIyeIRDvTkaSX9GAJ0ASsRYthYxANo3l9I4R3f7VGxo4bw3_EMegyo4GFHEGRPGXRxBYyoVsp4VlZelaffLzfTjZY8hJAFJSNArE_A/s1600/IMG_2262.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642739335448561362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8YD5462RO_sn3qp4VS1Cuv0bRJ-lcmz5wmuygG5YIyeIRDvTkaSX9GAJ0ASsRYthYxANo3l9I4R3f7VGxo4bw3_EMegyo4GFHEGRPGXRxBYyoVsp4VlZelaffLzfTjZY8hJAFJSNArE_A/s400/IMG_2262.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 312px; height: 400px;" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivQdtzuD5lN4j7Cb0rTsHeOCrvbOkn4DoGWfKT4kFzBYhcfEnDTW10NAgSbdhjNeEU5wOREha72hrJiBBZ4mijS3HrTobVyedhsJ-ljHhiJD-B5DxyxwhajxHqQnwjWZrmNhyk1f1W68L6/s1600/IMG_2181.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642739234273053138" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivQdtzuD5lN4j7Cb0rTsHeOCrvbOkn4DoGWfKT4kFzBYhcfEnDTW10NAgSbdhjNeEU5wOREha72hrJiBBZ4mijS3HrTobVyedhsJ-ljHhiJD-B5DxyxwhajxHqQnwjWZrmNhyk1f1W68L6/s400/IMG_2181.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL6NwSS17a1jAzuMswezj5iYqqMWi-giZKSXvkOu4Ku4yT6ClivkKWPbNfOeQEZe5F18IhQlHzRrr6RnAJjcuPh0HWYewsQTTF8iHtBrOrXxsnxyJRnqrApEKgvvqulwOJhh1bgAaM__Is/s1600/IMG_2333.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642739091165574850" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL6NwSS17a1jAzuMswezj5iYqqMWi-giZKSXvkOu4Ku4yT6ClivkKWPbNfOeQEZe5F18IhQlHzRrr6RnAJjcuPh0HWYewsQTTF8iHtBrOrXxsnxyJRnqrApEKgvvqulwOJhh1bgAaM__Is/s400/IMG_2333.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" /></a> This jacket was designed by Gilbert Adrian and was shown in his 1947 line. It was shown with a longer length straight skirt to create a very slender silhouette "Vogue" would call the 'tubular look' in the April 1947 edition. The jacket is made from black wool with such a high thread count that a magnifying loop had to be used to see the fine herringbone twill weave. This high thread count creates an extremely smooth surface and a lightweight but very firm fabric that is brushed for a kid finish. Heavy gold coins one inch in diameter are used. Three buttons in the front and two on the back belt are the only texture contrast to the smooth black fabric in the jacket. Details seen here are the whimsical pockets that are set at angles. With the light absorbing textile, they are nearly unseen until the viewer moves in closer. The back view has a semi-circle peplum skirt with narrow belt and two big coin buttons to accent that look. (This is the first part of several posts on this jacket) click on the photos to see them enlarged. Please contact me if you would like to use the photos from this article, thank you.

Vintage Details: Gilbert Adrian: Suit Jacket c. 1947: Part 1

This jacket was designed by Gilbert Adrian and was shown in his 1947 line. It was shown with a longer length straight skirt to create a ver...

6:08 AM

Vintage Detail: Chinese Silk Brocade Robe

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAZ8pV342rvhuZ8cCXvmf63gWHow54hwmBCxhiJydFqcACTnKY1uwYNdok9PUdyliOwUdA7qCRW9mrG3aAY18GvCxaXCjaYuhGXvq13-JQ_2-WjuDjx51Qw9k0ssndZZPJrbhlRsKeXNMP/s1600/IMG_4825.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642731365025986562" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAZ8pV342rvhuZ8cCXvmf63gWHow54hwmBCxhiJydFqcACTnKY1uwYNdok9PUdyliOwUdA7qCRW9mrG3aAY18GvCxaXCjaYuhGXvq13-JQ_2-WjuDjx51Qw9k0ssndZZPJrbhlRsKeXNMP/s400/IMG_4825.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 279px;" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTpu75cRQy5t03pBBNf01dAZLM47LF7mJNJRw7vJFDU6BRjeT_O-g0enFephAO2RNc4cOaBxAJhTyUD7Igfjip9MYfBKziTNJCKj6hvaKRuRy5i8QkHwXwQpWzcz43GzgET7Lrswwjs-vp/s1600/IMG_4828.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642729753024249634" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTpu75cRQy5t03pBBNf01dAZLM47LF7mJNJRw7vJFDU6BRjeT_O-g0enFephAO2RNc4cOaBxAJhTyUD7Igfjip9MYfBKziTNJCKj6hvaKRuRy5i8QkHwXwQpWzcz43GzgET7Lrswwjs-vp/s400/IMG_4828.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 348px; height: 400px;" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTkYEQZE2Z2JJ-K9equkEmBpPMhTJi5GQ-50eBffwqjs-MW2AVgfxT0Ada6YGYW8DaA0PMDr6lniTg2uUCVo5lML9gy9FQFwHEScsGwkKJWeQhTNBjJMZJTlYhQAveciwnRwxrnEOe1qFf/s1600/IMG_4822.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642729631054302834" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTkYEQZE2Z2JJ-K9equkEmBpPMhTJi5GQ-50eBffwqjs-MW2AVgfxT0Ada6YGYW8DaA0PMDr6lniTg2uUCVo5lML9gy9FQFwHEScsGwkKJWeQhTNBjJMZJTlYhQAveciwnRwxrnEOe1qFf/s400/IMG_4822.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 268px; height: 400px;" /></a> Silk brocade tourist robes like this have been produced for a long time. The labor involved in free hand stitching the mock-trapunto yoke, cuffs and pocket is considerable. Serpentine-shaped single needle stitching adds body to the robe, while the satin surface of the brocade reflects the stitching texture in a wonderful way. click on the photos to see them enlarged

Vintage Detail: Chinese Silk Brocade Robe

Silk brocade tourist robes like this have been produced for a long time. The labor involved in free hand stitching the mock-trapunto yoke, ...

5:32 AM

Advance 5479: 1950's Suit with Scalloped Edges

Advance 5479: 1950's Suit with Scalloped Edges

10:30 PM

Vintage Detail: c. 1913 Silk Chiffon Tabard

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsbV7m4JvoD_g0BypYqlETKeFdSFb4KbciA7QuPgLhZXPxGYdUNLqVN9AT5qwuiNA5AGooiQVz-rsB_q76KNWhU9Y8Og7WmDKaqJpzQBICoKXL9Xhsqk7urIAkZyAyay3VOpI5rE9gwomZ/s1600/IMG_4742.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642725000483052562" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsbV7m4JvoD_g0BypYqlETKeFdSFb4KbciA7QuPgLhZXPxGYdUNLqVN9AT5qwuiNA5AGooiQVz-rsB_q76KNWhU9Y8Og7WmDKaqJpzQBICoKXL9Xhsqk7urIAkZyAyay3VOpI5rE9gwomZ/s400/IMG_4742.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvsjlDuQajF6zlrHJg296yRkcaZ2C5r-LQ7xpmJmvU2G6VNbgMThxx4Tyj0ZilLxgLstutnYe4b-05rCSDyuSlH4Bm__X7VorLmURrVon-1a6YyZkxxbYIillVFk-6SRLDMlyxEbFOSWsx/s1600/IMG_4735.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642724877158444066" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvsjlDuQajF6zlrHJg296yRkcaZ2C5r-LQ7xpmJmvU2G6VNbgMThxx4Tyj0ZilLxgLstutnYe4b-05rCSDyuSlH4Bm__X7VorLmURrVon-1a6YyZkxxbYIillVFk-6SRLDMlyxEbFOSWsx/s400/IMG_4735.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 205px; height: 400px;" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV_fgRmp0auc6Mee-O3hspowvhdKz8oG3rj48Ga7Ku3Z9cIuz68xiVyH-86p9k5fCzyyl4GkveIgwC5CQ_hO8mQwJu7sUDecU_wq1Iw0iuj3snX0QRhqY7nxXMcA_soYgT0SrxxmlaJZ_H/s1600/IMG_4740.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642724764279025138" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV_fgRmp0auc6Mee-O3hspowvhdKz8oG3rj48Ga7Ku3Z9cIuz68xiVyH-86p9k5fCzyyl4GkveIgwC5CQ_hO8mQwJu7sUDecU_wq1Iw0iuj3snX0QRhqY7nxXMcA_soYgT0SrxxmlaJZ_H/s400/IMG_4740.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 255px; height: 400px;" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyNqm4l2ad9CkbpBJONv2nKW6OKJ3l4gOWAdexjw1NglkpZOKlcGVOCoqrBefqvphVOeQRO2fFKaCUjIAFlJxx_QHdWtXhZ8Yp1wVUMbw7EOnDZwvOEAnuj2En_fLlAu5xZr46Vg63iZeO/s1600/IMG_4709.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642724606755299634" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyNqm4l2ad9CkbpBJONv2nKW6OKJ3l4gOWAdexjw1NglkpZOKlcGVOCoqrBefqvphVOeQRO2fFKaCUjIAFlJxx_QHdWtXhZ8Yp1wVUMbw7EOnDZwvOEAnuj2En_fLlAu5xZr46Vg63iZeO/s400/IMG_4709.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 382px;" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVuwd4lArcCe4-Qe_PdJP0ugjN70wgEOfGn7yq99R8ULMiEp-AsOzwkJlMbMZv4zqVaHueEXBsxDhaqO4khXDLMS-nKsCzCVmZrBh5PkDervaMxu9JX5w5Dt3nYq-PjnceG2VP6BNDcCQc/s1600/IMG_4707.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642724458332849634" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVuwd4lArcCe4-Qe_PdJP0ugjN70wgEOfGn7yq99R8ULMiEp-AsOzwkJlMbMZv4zqVaHueEXBsxDhaqO4khXDLMS-nKsCzCVmZrBh5PkDervaMxu9JX5w5Dt3nYq-PjnceG2VP6BNDcCQc/s400/IMG_4707.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 341px;" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx78v3857Auwj_ghqgqqn_tS-RcGm0UMxZf6w_Vhx8bT195dQihwXPfivdOD5xRJsS-E9lTBY_TPfZyr8HYRV3GN54nh3huG898BlYGND7M_GITSCEqMUi2m1KRFHTf9-KLihXWBDQIrDj/s1600/IMG_4714.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642724337518227810" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx78v3857Auwj_ghqgqqn_tS-RcGm0UMxZf6w_Vhx8bT195dQihwXPfivdOD5xRJsS-E9lTBY_TPfZyr8HYRV3GN54nh3huG898BlYGND7M_GITSCEqMUi2m1KRFHTf9-KLihXWBDQIrDj/s400/IMG_4714.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" /></a> This silk chiffon tabard dates from the early 'teens when high waistlines and narrow hems were the silhouette. Designed to be worn over a tunic or gown, this very simple sheer shell has bursts of beading on the bodice front, back and skirt hem. The sheer chiffon is bound in black velvet trim around the neckline and along the sides. The design of this garment is very simple. The bodice front and back are sewn only on the right shoulder, the left shoulder has snaps (seen here with my own pearl head pins to hold it closed). The garment is hooked at each side waistline (see my pins here too). The skirt panels fall without side seams, so they open when walking. I show this tabard over a longer black slip and a white one (both modern) so that the details are be more visible. The fragile nature of this garment is evident and is typical of gowns from this decade. click on the images to see them enlarged

Vintage Detail: c. 1913 Silk Chiffon Tabard

This silk chiffon tabard dates from the early 'teens when high waistlines and narrow hems were the silhouette. Designed to be worn over...

5:10 AM

Asher Fabrics: Couture Fashion, 1958

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxfYW8og1gFeUJ2iulWhTsENax7wfoZwfHli9b5MOEXlDIpN963sXalj4LBGLY25rF8qlGYQ_azN1AiV1AZRwC5Kn38n65kHnLNrigHBNtbU898QIqfIuKAszqqJoFk65rWwCk-YjGpcqX/s1600/London+Winter+1958-1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5643352165051574802" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxfYW8og1gFeUJ2iulWhTsENax7wfoZwfHli9b5MOEXlDIpN963sXalj4LBGLY25rF8qlGYQ_azN1AiV1AZRwC5Kn38n65kHnLNrigHBNtbU898QIqfIuKAszqqJoFk65rWwCk-YjGpcqX/s400/London+Winter+1958-1.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif9ptTMCIdJWX9vXzJpr4l0Y-vUsmnoITVf49j2j17DGDoHKmTKAp9EOXcStsjFWoNjZFEbc3we8oAhx-XJS6r1aWefX7AHnqgBQT2dJmAappT0ggPVoouD9mPHbVWUA8nFD-MUpywVFyn/s1600/Florence+Winter+1958-1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5643351931190044018" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif9ptTMCIdJWX9vXzJpr4l0Y-vUsmnoITVf49j2j17DGDoHKmTKAp9EOXcStsjFWoNjZFEbc3we8oAhx-XJS6r1aWefX7AHnqgBQT2dJmAappT0ggPVoouD9mPHbVWUA8nFD-MUpywVFyn/s400/Florence+Winter+1958-1.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ-VP4eXRYGabU3-ZsB6-ct2VCTdjfuasADn5OE7azE_00oUWbaxTrRQNNCLwiC2otFSyPIZ2YKU9XLMJNB8bzbak8CqryWooUiVMZfEdqr2wt6PuGw2WKc8-tfj36tdHRqyZzR8LeGeBy/s1600/Florence+Spring+1958-1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5643351699763068818" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ-VP4eXRYGabU3-ZsB6-ct2VCTdjfuasADn5OE7azE_00oUWbaxTrRQNNCLwiC2otFSyPIZ2YKU9XLMJNB8bzbak8CqryWooUiVMZfEdqr2wt6PuGw2WKc8-tfj36tdHRqyZzR8LeGeBy/s400/Florence+Spring+1958-1.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2icnAB9baPuGIIUBmmwWIP1REjem94F6E_UmFbdbcPuOEZ_j3a7nGQfgnMKF17cHeqPsfHMXQ1oy53oNZwWk5OC-HNgYPlOE4GFPv1SzLP6ZqlBLvqjQ5XwKUjURcihj8H-MPMQJFjHbV/s1600/Paris+Winter+1958-1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5643351471812536754" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2icnAB9baPuGIIUBmmwWIP1REjem94F6E_UmFbdbcPuOEZ_j3a7nGQfgnMKF17cHeqPsfHMXQ1oy53oNZwWk5OC-HNgYPlOE4GFPv1SzLP6ZqlBLvqjQ5XwKUjURcihj8H-MPMQJFjHbV/s400/Paris+Winter+1958-1.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWfYeeZDrnSzWFABfN_HWSpPAs-j60PawctXGkyt8Sm23ONH8AmecPnvK6uSd0wZ9zsOgYv8nBM1nEMcf9DiQeCl2fHQCKBfhAcxdig0kbsFygPAp4fyLJ2y6XdgQuloa69-spvmHmA4F1/s1600/Paris+Spring+1958-1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5643351153552449682" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWfYeeZDrnSzWFABfN_HWSpPAs-j60PawctXGkyt8Sm23ONH8AmecPnvK6uSd0wZ9zsOgYv8nBM1nEMcf9DiQeCl2fHQCKBfhAcxdig0kbsFygPAp4fyLJ2y6XdgQuloa69-spvmHmA4F1/s400/Paris+Spring+1958-1.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" /></a> Ascher, London has posted five couture fashion portfolios from 1958. These scrapbooks with photos showcase designs using the original textiles by Zika Ascher, including mohair fabrics that Ascher was developing. It is wonderful to look through each collection. They captures the couture look from that year so well. Also on this site is a gorgeous gallery of <a href="http://ascherstudio.com/gallery/190">Ascher Scarves</a> from the mid-1940's that were designed by known artists of the day. <a href="http://ascherstudio.com/gallery/193">Ascher Fabric Couture Collections, 1958</a> Haute Couture, Paris: Spring and Winter Cardin Desses Givenchy Griffe Heim Lanvin-Castillo Laroche Matta Riviere Rouff Haute Couture, London: Winter Cavanagh Cardin Paterson Riviere Alta Moda, Florence: Spring and Winter Antonelli Baratta Capucci Carosa De Luca Fabiani Simonetta (a special thanks to <a href="http://bonbonatelier.blogspot.com/2011/08/ascher-studio.html">BonBon Atelier</a> for reminding me of this collection)

Asher Fabrics: Couture Fashion, 1958

Ascher, London has posted five couture fashion portfolios from 1958. These scrapbooks with photos showcase designs using the original texti...

9:40 AM

Sewing Vintage Fashion: Vogue Patterns, April 1960

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu-GlPcoSqXH4r8rtopTl7FgCgUmeEpF5hGhSu-3F30Y-mR-XujWytg3xsXjklgIhxapcpM4vQrebxP9IhRSUvtmQXcQ0sf-_tIEyYVv_Jg1V84Oi-3cchbIpvWRB8-72dAHEsmFAtZ3g8/s1600/IMG_7392.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="vintage vogue 9967" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641464241716795042" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu-GlPcoSqXH4r8rtopTl7FgCgUmeEpF5hGhSu-3F30Y-mR-XujWytg3xsXjklgIhxapcpM4vQrebxP9IhRSUvtmQXcQ0sf-_tIEyYVv_Jg1V84Oi-3cchbIpvWRB8-72dAHEsmFAtZ3g8/s400/IMG_7392.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 500px;" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPE8EVcepy3Gv17Loh-43f4qwvEPon9OqZJj6zVPKcsEyzB7nm-875-q5f5w46xQ3FMir4SbefzBqeuLLpM8FnOaQGbH7QNb7OLRbgO9Y3HQAPGNZ3wyJY1lVYVpC6D_qTRHKBEuKSm_qr/s1600/IMG_7401.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="vintage vogue 9967" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641464131954263458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPE8EVcepy3Gv17Loh-43f4qwvEPon9OqZJj6zVPKcsEyzB7nm-875-q5f5w46xQ3FMir4SbefzBqeuLLpM8FnOaQGbH7QNb7OLRbgO9Y3HQAPGNZ3wyJY1lVYVpC6D_qTRHKBEuKSm_qr/s400/IMG_7401.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 275px; height: 500px;" /></a> Vogue 9967. Blue eyelet, embroidered with dots, great full sleeves on fitted shirt waist dress <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoTXKAPn9_GueuJRsWszERX7O_4QOznInNVxa_emYX4VnVDieKTLb9G-zWrchelzyhsfHKpTenP9YKRUmOe2dh_I1O1QzeKfqf2oPaT2rprF9p7-kSc4hjzNYcdBxE4OAbNC1eWYdTsuq9/s1600/IMG_7389.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="vintage vogue 9991" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641464010503611218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoTXKAPn9_GueuJRsWszERX7O_4QOznInNVxa_emYX4VnVDieKTLb9G-zWrchelzyhsfHKpTenP9YKRUmOe2dh_I1O1QzeKfqf2oPaT2rprF9p7-kSc4hjzNYcdBxE4OAbNC1eWYdTsuq9/s400/IMG_7389.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 350px; height: 500px;" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMj6pEa2FtrUNQ9oJQ2bJWCGB9N7xESxm2B_A_asQUCn9ngF1yfVFv9CHx8fgVRfWazIRCAaLMHCdMc-rD8ZZnE1Ni73kLbbs563qibX6KGJfvJD9FbJVf1l_IX5KFhvlcMQlyVz6HuxYZ/s1600/IMG_7399.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="vintage vogue 9991" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641463901817529186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMj6pEa2FtrUNQ9oJQ2bJWCGB9N7xESxm2B_A_asQUCn9ngF1yfVFv9CHx8fgVRfWazIRCAaLMHCdMc-rD8ZZnE1Ni73kLbbs563qibX6KGJfvJD9FbJVf1l_IX5KFhvlcMQlyVz6HuxYZ/s400/IMG_7399.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 340px; height: 500px;" /></a> Vogue 9991. Floral border on cotton with matching stole wrap, sleeveless bodice with deep "V" back <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuXiZ1swIEbjaFTNjBC6HQ9cRY48gT8DkxYDFlNV7rtRtscgTQziqsM2bmET-r4J4Osewa_MVhEIEehJeZY5ilF6GpTZTvy3mKHMgVhwpfXttkTeRWOReFJ94Fg7Sdz5LfROWO2sw7iaSR/s1600/IMG_7393.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="vintage vogue 4104" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641463771193426018" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuXiZ1swIEbjaFTNjBC6HQ9cRY48gT8DkxYDFlNV7rtRtscgTQziqsM2bmET-r4J4Osewa_MVhEIEehJeZY5ilF6GpTZTvy3mKHMgVhwpfXttkTeRWOReFJ94Fg7Sdz5LfROWO2sw7iaSR/s400/IMG_7393.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 350px; height: 500px;" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRkFMDR9fKZrkq2dugJr5yL8PMtOmHji9xu7TufIxZLBZ7RTz0lnmpXBlbZRcgjnukcHY-mBNSsRu4mqR5N8Zsai25KaRAYETfNt_-WKAmjMNn8VzrvMtlSrLfvPeSvihoE6XJMVO1FTbA/s1600/IMG_7402.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="vintage vogue 4104" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641463637915664610" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRkFMDR9fKZrkq2dugJr5yL8PMtOmHji9xu7TufIxZLBZ7RTz0lnmpXBlbZRcgjnukcHY-mBNSsRu4mqR5N8Zsai25KaRAYETfNt_-WKAmjMNn8VzrvMtlSrLfvPeSvihoE6XJMVO1FTbA/s400/IMG_7402.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 170px; height: 500px;" /></a> Vogue 4101. Small kimono sleeve bodice with 3.5 yards wide gathered skirt in mauve ribbed cotton These three vintage Vogue patterns are all sewn in cottons. They appear in "Ladies Home Journal", April 1960 (the Kim Novak cover is so sadly damaged I couldn't include a photo for you). It is interesting to note how easy the dresses would be to sew. The seam lines are classic, so that they might be duplicated today using patterns available. The slides below show some current sewing patterns from Vogue, Butterick and McCall's that I found online. These could provide the basic garment to work from. Gathered skirts are not common in today's patterns, so that style would need to be improvised (easy stuff to do). <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg71QPCDwLIJ-C7LFmxeSJRh4icD1BXFhkCDZUEVjM1hyo2P9VZeGRWWTmKanhfWYuD7CKOOq8XLFA0nh7jq-6EFCJoruiH3kQOgANTYHyUR7yXJSJaVTOLXbBJTUhDKH9MKdHDoHVBxUu0/s1600/Slide1.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641488766511802706" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg71QPCDwLIJ-C7LFmxeSJRh4icD1BXFhkCDZUEVjM1hyo2P9VZeGRWWTmKanhfWYuD7CKOOq8XLFA0nh7jq-6EFCJoruiH3kQOgANTYHyUR7yXJSJaVTOLXbBJTUhDKH9MKdHDoHVBxUu0/s400/Slide1.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" /></a> A kimono sleeve bodice is not common today, but there is one vintage styled pattern from Butterick that is similar. This pattern also has a "V" back (remove the bow). Small cap sleeves will also get the 'look'. When sewing a "V" back, that diagonal cut seam will need to be stabilized with twill tape, a strip of interfacing or elastic. That way it won't gap or fall off the shoulders. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYT8azdZbf6HLGSX9IeTmd1oZpgFjPBpeM_tKtfOihauH1t3fM9qvL7Fo5IK4a6YL_tWktc3yaAxv8H1imq5agWIltkFvPWEauCoraJKSJDru1lA0_VEc55dy7b-wn3H_1NONmXUu-uxk-/s1600/Slide2.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641488700054440354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYT8azdZbf6HLGSX9IeTmd1oZpgFjPBpeM_tKtfOihauH1t3fM9qvL7Fo5IK4a6YL_tWktc3yaAxv8H1imq5agWIltkFvPWEauCoraJKSJDru1lA0_VEc55dy7b-wn3H_1NONmXUu-uxk-/s400/Slide2.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" /></a> The fitted top with deep "V" back on the blue floral dress is very simple. When cutting a "V" back neckline, be sure that the front neckline stays high enough to keep the shoulders in place. If the front is also low cut, the shoulders slip down easily. Dressmakers would add little snaps inside that neckline so the bra strap could be fastened to the shoulder, keeping it in place. Basic fit patterns are great for classic bodices such as this one. For the vintage sewist, this type of pattern is essential to own. It can be used for many styles once a true fit has been made. All three pattern companies carry a version of this pattern. An alternative to simple darts is the princess bodice. Those vertical seam lines make for a better fit on curvy bodices. I show a princess pattern for each style. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYpPPetdzzCY6ZRp9WHa4-VAUgi60Z0awOjUvC8EpalKS38ciEigAxBK6c_El55fd3OOfZVdOxQUi0y6VfwXBCSJTEcKggeD8F_q8rx-UI9XMOT44KeJtD0NJoCB6iVMtGv_lrk-iKEdBd/s1600/Slide3.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641488625780582290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYpPPetdzzCY6ZRp9WHa4-VAUgi60Z0awOjUvC8EpalKS38ciEigAxBK6c_El55fd3OOfZVdOxQUi0y6VfwXBCSJTEcKggeD8F_q8rx-UI9XMOT44KeJtD0NJoCB6iVMtGv_lrk-iKEdBd/s400/Slide3.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" /></a> This full skirted shirt dress with puffed sleeves can be duplicated in two ways: as a dress or as a blouse with gathered skirt (an easier fit for most). Those great gathered sleeves are probably easier to locate in a 1980's pattern, since current sleeves have a slender upper arm. I found a few blouses that might make a fitted bodice, and two have fuller sleeves. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh4WwREn6QuszE2FkgP0EOY4FCr7i_El3IKgA-DTwp0AeWCpZca66e1yYnZI1zAt8VtBhYONhueT7Hw6JfS4VaXGwH-q5IuALyuCNGE-BTobO4HgHkfFXEqgnKKAzzc_Psf_7JbApjduq0/s1600/Slide4.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641488471514150914" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh4WwREn6QuszE2FkgP0EOY4FCr7i_El3IKgA-DTwp0AeWCpZca66e1yYnZI1zAt8VtBhYONhueT7Hw6JfS4VaXGwH-q5IuALyuCNGE-BTobO4HgHkfFXEqgnKKAzzc_Psf_7JbApjduq0/s400/Slide4.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" /></a>

Sewing Vintage Fashion: Vogue Patterns, April 1960

Vogue 9967. Blue eyelet, embroidered with dots, great full sleeves on fitted shirt waist dress Vogue 9991. Floral border on cotton with matc...

7:33 AM

1930's Bridal Bias Cut Gowns

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXrJ22VcZcNTq0j-juNSxjYQZgFEbUpxIp3VIqIDdmew_m1cJIHoAP0zbE7OdtA4uHkZQL00gugQFWRF57-SX6Bs0RtoeLJLAmYAyQPayyT42TAfkljd_q9xpv4zPreqWP5Y13G8-oYG0m/s1600/IMG_5528.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="flapper bride" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586950184686381010" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXrJ22VcZcNTq0j-juNSxjYQZgFEbUpxIp3VIqIDdmew_m1cJIHoAP0zbE7OdtA4uHkZQL00gugQFWRF57-SX6Bs0RtoeLJLAmYAyQPayyT42TAfkljd_q9xpv4zPreqWP5Y13G8-oYG0m/s400/IMG_5528.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 450px; height: 600px;" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghS1sy-FQoEb0oSadGQBVojKIeQmx1Mrg9RvFrPYRGt3P7Vuk8iq_W9uFyOyhOVnjUvfVWpkDjvL3ijqhel_AJrQfREkRgJSkBAdtiUkZKmkVZlL6ry_9sANJNcWSnw21clpfQS9rJST1j/s1600/IMG_5529.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="flapper wedding" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586949952398855090" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghS1sy-FQoEb0oSadGQBVojKIeQmx1Mrg9RvFrPYRGt3P7Vuk8iq_W9uFyOyhOVnjUvfVWpkDjvL3ijqhel_AJrQfREkRgJSkBAdtiUkZKmkVZlL6ry_9sANJNcWSnw21clpfQS9rJST1j/s400/IMG_5529.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px; height: 450px;" /></a>During the 1920's and 1930's, flapper brides had real style. Wedding looks broke away from the rigid silhouettes of the previous generation because these were modern girls with a new point of view. The first bride shown here dates from 1930 and wears a 'Juliet' inspired gown. It has an empire raised waistline with short puffed sleeves that have long fitted lace arms. This bias cut gown has a long fitted body with flared hemline in a silhouette will become very popular in the years that followed. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_xTRTuq6yhkSpaLMDeN95HAjBOi6Sv2UeFGziTEANB-b9lm4jUwvbkck5MMI7mV-r892-U0qml0kNQmPJ21xBv2ZxPk6rvVk1ls09SP_lu-PcdOFiebCJ7sG9UsOQoa3RaViwV0h2Qjyw/s1600/IMG_5518.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="flapper bride" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586949776988404242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_xTRTuq6yhkSpaLMDeN95HAjBOi6Sv2UeFGziTEANB-b9lm4jUwvbkck5MMI7mV-r892-U0qml0kNQmPJ21xBv2ZxPk6rvVk1ls09SP_lu-PcdOFiebCJ7sG9UsOQoa3RaViwV0h2Qjyw/s400/IMG_5518.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 450px; height: 600px;" /></a>Veils were a dominant look coming down the aisle. This bride is also from the early 1930's and shows that to be wrapped in a haze of netting can create an air of mystery we don't see often in current bridal looks today. Seen through the gauze, we can see her soft leg-o-mutton sleeves and draped cowl neckline. I bet there is a row of covered buttons down the back of this bodice. Her flared hemline is sewn to the fitted gown at about knee level, creating a long train behind her. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz64424D5-8JH3azsuG-JyJ-j9wlDF8OiE4JnF676cTsx7DQy92R-Pkh7qUSEyg5Gguugzd6jCIw7OXhSf72rrqBdWIyuI2PL-BSeoQtRR0oVPVL-CpGzGLYZTjZEARlY9Gt442ruTL9Vq/s1600/IMG_5551.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="1930's bride" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586949563154892530" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz64424D5-8JH3azsuG-JyJ-j9wlDF8OiE4JnF676cTsx7DQy92R-Pkh7qUSEyg5Gguugzd6jCIw7OXhSf72rrqBdWIyuI2PL-BSeoQtRR0oVPVL-CpGzGLYZTjZEARlY9Gt442ruTL9Vq/s400/IMG_5551.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 450px; height: 600px;" /></a> The third bride dates from a bit later in the decade. Her dress is a classic bias cut, with a softly flowing wide flared hemline that the photographer will manipulate into a swirl of fabric at her feet. Again, the veil plays an important part in the overall silhouette of the bridal ensemble. As you look at these, don't miss the men's attire. Wouldn't it be lovely if fathers, attendants and grooms once again wore morning coats to daytime weddings? The longer, tapered coat is so elegant, and it creates a wonderful look to the bridal party 'scene'.

1930's Bridal Bias Cut Gowns

During the 1920's and 1930's, flapper brides had real style. Wedding looks broke away from the rigid silhouettes of the previous ge...

9:35 AM

caftan pattern