A Closer View: Navy Silk Sheath, c. 1955

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide1-1_zps10c6724a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="415" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide1-1_zps10c6724a.jpg" width="550" /></a></div><br><br>One of the best ways to learn fine dress making is to study examples of the craft. This silk sheath dress from the mid-1950's is a great example. It is clearly a custom made dress, with many hand sewn details. By looking at it in detail, we can learn more about the design and drape of this wrapped 'sarong style' dress, along with tips on how to sew a feather weight dress like this that holds its shape well when worn. <br><br>This gorgeous navy dress of silk twill has a blue floral pattern that is probably Italian silk. It is backed by lining that is sewn 'in one' with the outer fashion fabric. I use the term 'flat lining' for this process. The lining is also used as a base to hold the drapery in place. It is probable that the customer had a fitting wearing the lining, while the dress designer wrapped the silk fashion fabric around the body, pleating it into the side seams as shown below. <br><br>The right and left sides are patterned and sewn differently, creating the signature sarong effect. This sarong skirt is sewn into the sheath side seam on the right, but it wraps around the left without a side seam, hanging open at the center back. <br><br> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide2-1_zps0ca83a2f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="415" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide2-1_zps0ca83a2f.jpg" width="550" /></a></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide3-1_zps8bf2b4af.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="415" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide3-1_zps8bf2b4af.jpg" width="550" /></a></div><br> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide4-1_zpsbc84d929.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="415" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide4-1_zpsbc84d929.jpg" width="550" /></a></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide5-1_zps01acfeb3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="415" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide5-1_zps01acfeb3.jpg" width="550" /></a></div><br>Looking inside the dress we can see the construction techniques. These are classic points. The scarf weight fashion fabric was 'backed' by a lining. The two layers were stitched together, then cut with pinking shears. When pressed open, the stitching shows clearly that this was 'flat lined'. <br><br>The transfer marks used to place the darts shows as little white dots. These would have been part of the custom or couture process. Seam tape is sewn along the waistline seam to stablize it and keep it from ripping apart. This tape was also used to edge the hem. Using hem tape is an easy way to provide a clean edge that is easy to sew through. <br><br>The bodice of this dress was cut with princess seam lines in the back, while the front had conventional darts. The fashion fabric was draped on top of this and sewn in place. This same lining was used in the skirt, but only to the knee level. This would keep the hips smooth, but allow the hem area to drape nicely. <br><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide6-1_zps8f338eb6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="415" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide6-1_zps8f338eb6.jpg" width="550" /></a></div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide7-1_zps1ebf9ff7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="415" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide7-1_zps1ebf9ff7.jpg" width="550" /></a></div><br><br>This wonderful dress is listed in my <a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/123254798/reservedsilk-wrap-sheath-in-navy-silk">shop on Etsy</a> where you will find more photos of it. If you like this style, look for designs by Dorothy O'Hara, Helen Rose, and Peggy Hunt among others from that era who specialized in draped dresses. <i>(this dress does not have a label)</i><br><br>

A Closer View: Navy Silk Sheath, c. 1955

One of the best ways to learn fine dress making is to study examples of the craft. This silk sheath dress from the mid-1950's is a grea...

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Dorothy O'hara: California Fashion Designer

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxnIHEt7iw8nZ4CMChhph4TNzWnsl1ntt4M0Ke75Cc64PfKi-hRoa8Nyhp-XpLuoLTq-NpVTophOj5VFgRVDBHpIWipPWB3iZ3L4bFm2FFSgE8l6hjpsLvFvbMeWH-TsXX65ozZO3dU2zn/s1600/DorothyOhara.watermark.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxnIHEt7iw8nZ4CMChhph4TNzWnsl1ntt4M0Ke75Cc64PfKi-hRoa8Nyhp-XpLuoLTq-NpVTophOj5VFgRVDBHpIWipPWB3iZ3L4bFm2FFSgE8l6hjpsLvFvbMeWH-TsXX65ozZO3dU2zn/s400/DorothyOhara.watermark.jpg" width="375" /></a></div><i>“Makes women look nice and men look twice” Magazine advertisement, 1957: crepe in black, taupe, royal blue, $55</i><br>Dorothy O’hara was a Hollywood designer whose dresses were popular from the early 1940’s through the early 1960’s. During her career she designed movie costume as well as fashionable dresses that were sold a better stores nationwide. <br><br>Dorothy was part of an energetic fashion group calling themselves the “California Fashion Creators”. It included Pat Premo, Addie Masters, James Galanos, Edith Small, Charles Cooper, Tabak, and DeDe Johnson. <br><br>She was known as the “Sculptress in Fabric” for her dresses that featured artistic drape and fit. The dress styles were termed “step in”, referring to the fact that they were all-in-one with a zipper up the back, making the dresses easy to wear. She also designed crepe dresses that looked like suits, but were in fact one piece (1954). <br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJw8rJvjJqdGwy5CrMCijW71AF7CgektuiDFV3BMHoJsAb1G_8ThDGUdLBjuSBtelfNTRFkxE0fSQLJTvXHGI5hkzaFXI7xo8mVxMDBKRqbxa96f21Fi8vNPXenPUsiLdqkoRGWL-xw2Ru/s1600/DorothyOhara.illustratio.watermark.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJw8rJvjJqdGwy5CrMCijW71AF7CgektuiDFV3BMHoJsAb1G_8ThDGUdLBjuSBtelfNTRFkxE0fSQLJTvXHGI5hkzaFXI7xo8mVxMDBKRqbxa96f21Fi8vNPXenPUsiLdqkoRGWL-xw2Ru/s400/DorothyOhara.illustratio.watermark.jpg" width="270" /></a></div><i>Newspaper Advertisement, Fall 1945: crepe in blue, purple, green, sizes 10 – 16, $35</i><br><br>Dorothy began her career as a fashion model, a slim girl with red hair she would spend her life working with fabric and fashion. To learn pattern making, she studied at night while working as a model during the day. This training would gave her a opportunity to design for the company where she modeled. <br><br>As a movie costumer between 1945 and 47, she designed for starlets at Paramount, gaining experience in creating dramatic designs. She began her own fashion business in 1941 with her husband Hank Lunney, borrowing $800 using their car as collateral. This first venture was a line of six dresses that were produced on only two sewing machines that they bought and installed in their apartment in Los Angeles. She hoped to create couture style dresses in a production line. <br><br>By the end of her career, it was a multi-million dollar business sold internationally, producing between 400 and 600 dresses a day. <br><br>During her career she contributed numerous fashion tips that were carried in the local press. This marketing strategy would keep her name in the press and on the mind of her customer. In 1949 she recommended a slim skirt with peplum over the hips to create curves in a thin figure and conceal extra curves in larger sizes. She would produce sizes 12 through 20 to provide fashion for larger women as well as the fashionably petite. <br><br>Dorothy married to Lunney in about 1934 at the age of about 22. She lived in Orange County most of her married life and died in 1963 at the young age of 51. <br><br>“I like to think my clothes are both timely and timeless” (1960) <br><br><br>Movie costumes(She worked on several films with Alan Ladd): Variety Girl (1947. with Edith Head and Waldo Angelo), The Imperfect Lady (1947, with Gile Steele), Calcutta (1947), The Searching Wind (1946, with Michael Woulfe), Two Years Before the Mast (1946), The Unseen (1945), Salty O’Rourke (1945) <br><br>Television: Dick Van Dyke Show (My Husband is a Check Grabber: 1963, fashions by O’hara are seen in this episode) <br><br><br>Copyright, 2012: The written content and pictures in this article are the sole property of "Pintuckstyle.blogspot.com". Please do not copy or use any part of this article online without prior permission. If including information from this article in an original written document, please give credit by linking back to this article, thank you.

Dorothy O'hara: California Fashion Designer

“Makes women look nice and men look twice” Magazine advertisement, 1957: crepe in black, taupe, royal blue, $55 Dorothy O’hara was a Hollywo...

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