Sew News: features PINTUCKS Vintage Dresses!

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtRiJ1iyr_GPPt8NHxtoOHG-i2tOqAOcTkmSBwG1wmeH6iRZQJnJpyHJLjo-xxOB_6xNFokvU3vrJYXjcLyUHYTGjaLC3nNFvR0IOMaFMPPvpE3Hy7knAvbJMXpZOYEogC45yvaRvuOtkR/s1600/Slide1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtRiJ1iyr_GPPt8NHxtoOHG-i2tOqAOcTkmSBwG1wmeH6iRZQJnJpyHJLjo-xxOB_6xNFokvU3vrJYXjcLyUHYTGjaLC3nNFvR0IOMaFMPPvpE3Hy7knAvbJMXpZOYEogC45yvaRvuOtkR/s400/Slide1.JPG" /></a></div><br />The recent Feb/March 2014 issue of "Sew News" magazine features several vintage dresses from my collection. I was contacted by the magazine this past summer, and finally the feature has appeared. The topic is under lining and inside construction technigues, and the three dresses shown have beautiful examples of this construction technique. <br /><br />I thought it might be interesting to show a bit more of these dresses, so you can see some of their distinct details. The chiffon dress above features a lovely draped cowl neckline in back. This is attached online at the shoulders, so it can be lifted up to show the dress neckline in back. <br /><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWfNJzH7BIiKbCLqI06B5G-iHDMLBDe428gP2aIbOPU7OE2P_Oo5pkWEoa2U-Kmq82ZyvSZKFsE2mMsBQCBDaXPbkHIhsfhMSJJS4hgCMEROigBZO0mbFHPUSsvU2KYrpMjgooQkCjiUmW/s1600/Slide2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWfNJzH7BIiKbCLqI06B5G-iHDMLBDe428gP2aIbOPU7OE2P_Oo5pkWEoa2U-Kmq82ZyvSZKFsE2mMsBQCBDaXPbkHIhsfhMSJJS4hgCMEROigBZO0mbFHPUSsvU2KYrpMjgooQkCjiUmW/s400/Slide2.JPG" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2hgxiWKepWD_GC8jFnERt7B0Un5Y-HFcn1yVzEdkHKKIXvzT2Zn8RGN1Fi-dz7sNPMc7zbAjlaBN0cZyqEIJdxroYn9qmbwqfrqc4YqL2NnN4pJm19tre8IJAuMKW3f0uSixa8qhR9a2K/s1600/Slide3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2hgxiWKepWD_GC8jFnERt7B0Un5Y-HFcn1yVzEdkHKKIXvzT2Zn8RGN1Fi-dz7sNPMc7zbAjlaBN0cZyqEIJdxroYn9qmbwqfrqc4YqL2NnN4pJm19tre8IJAuMKW3f0uSixa8qhR9a2K/s400/Slide3.JPG" /></a></div><br />The shoulders are pleated, which allows for a large length of fabric to be draped in back. <br /><br />The blue dress featured in the article has a Japanese influence, with little 'kimono' sleeves, a wide 'obi' midriff waistline and "V" neckline that has many pleats converging into the center front. <br /><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS1Jx-f1QKozZTzChQrB8HMYaYF5S0nbpyIfrOZIUlBj49ZKpenJFzDt3WyQ0IfDCphFSTqY0hL4ZcoxPO3EvkK9s4reDA9NSIqja8Jj-RBVbQ6PS7SX5xxUOqAWW4Xhbhfqg-lLKzAi9p/s1600/Slide5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS1Jx-f1QKozZTzChQrB8HMYaYF5S0nbpyIfrOZIUlBj49ZKpenJFzDt3WyQ0IfDCphFSTqY0hL4ZcoxPO3EvkK9s4reDA9NSIqja8Jj-RBVbQ6PS7SX5xxUOqAWW4Xhbhfqg-lLKzAi9p/s400/Slide5.JPG" /></a></div><br /><br />An close-up view of this bodice shows these details, while the back view is very plain. <br /><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6qJy3Pc4mWKOcQzlsQxW08Z9HjypUWce9tR4JPqS8-GoDbh1sFVzGbKk1hzFxBNroqTdqFO-1PDsBb0NbpEMCDmvpyO7mkFOpNhljh8ykw1MC7h1VKCJEbExmmxpezEY3NjI9s8JwBJrt/s1600/Slide4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6qJy3Pc4mWKOcQzlsQxW08Z9HjypUWce9tR4JPqS8-GoDbh1sFVzGbKk1hzFxBNroqTdqFO-1PDsBb0NbpEMCDmvpyO7mkFOpNhljh8ykw1MC7h1VKCJEbExmmxpezEY3NjI9s8JwBJrt/s400/Slide4.JPG" /></a></div><br /><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUv1awDbMS_zTnLkLYCz9RZpFpibUp66_MXkLkEdX7eOYEMHHxerDEzX6tbZIepUjqeTxm2IL12XgKMxugkcMgRuAOaa2XDGM69CxwwWdXB6g2g_8HM0ZZtywSz6KEYGkU6FJ7d1qSU0VK/s1600/Slide7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUv1awDbMS_zTnLkLYCz9RZpFpibUp66_MXkLkEdX7eOYEMHHxerDEzX6tbZIepUjqeTxm2IL12XgKMxugkcMgRuAOaa2XDGM69CxwwWdXB6g2g_8HM0ZZtywSz6KEYGkU6FJ7d1qSU0VK/s400/Slide7.JPG" /></a></div><br />The third dress, in ice blue satin, is influenced by Victorian fashion. While it appears to be a narrow sheath from the front view, the back view has a draped 'bustle' panel cut in a wide half circle. The sleeves and dropped waistline add to the romantic look. This is a princess seamed bodice, with a waistline accent that drops in back to feature the flared skirt there. <br /><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2IUVM8RCaSuc3L10EP7lPkwYLPyNFO6dTZURsGEb_cO1AE_z7PCiCNY2DrIwX9zuMsWJnrP8FL7f0l_TANKd6aHLlGNA-QmcFhuYeSeY_BpO5R1iKwG9qsG1Zu55R5PY3KURcC0dpBXIE/s1600/Slide8.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2IUVM8RCaSuc3L10EP7lPkwYLPyNFO6dTZURsGEb_cO1AE_z7PCiCNY2DrIwX9zuMsWJnrP8FL7f0l_TANKd6aHLlGNA-QmcFhuYeSeY_BpO5R1iKwG9qsG1Zu55R5PY3KURcC0dpBXIE/s400/Slide8.JPG" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEintzqHNO6M49gDKQP5_eZRN9H6KkNdT3A_berjUhmcG8pXfnLyj_Ik0gCDapfGVUuEcpjB20O8AFaW-WKKt7qlhfKcwmBUCjNfck6KAPZhuCTRTjSIHLkQE4Je1KLfz6boap93CROIvRJ1/s1600/Slide9.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEintzqHNO6M49gDKQP5_eZRN9H6KkNdT3A_berjUhmcG8pXfnLyj_Ik0gCDapfGVUuEcpjB20O8AFaW-WKKt7qlhfKcwmBUCjNfck6KAPZhuCTRTjSIHLkQE4Je1KLfz6boap93CROIvRJ1/s400/Slide9.JPG" /></a></div><br /><br />The neckline, sleeves and waistline are edged in a fine piping. The sleeve shape and wide neckline are strongly influenced by bodices from the mid-1800's. The semi-circle skirt panel at center back is held in place by a narrow skirt lining. This keeps the front smooth. <br /><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9BBfFZfbJPfIL3k2hQCONwuB_HttlG_tcQeE8x4C7kDCmALCj4q_pCyvjt7zJ8atVycPbAFBku7ZY8AENEaUETpyTNmmhyphenhyphen7sqTyh1Jm2NElvSIIqItjY7o0Y39Mes7-a2hAxQnygbeoQD/s1600/Slide10.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9BBfFZfbJPfIL3k2hQCONwuB_HttlG_tcQeE8x4C7kDCmALCj4q_pCyvjt7zJ8atVycPbAFBku7ZY8AENEaUETpyTNmmhyphenhyphen7sqTyh1Jm2NElvSIIqItjY7o0Y39Mes7-a2hAxQnygbeoQD/s400/Slide10.JPG" /></a></div><br />These are the three dresses you will find in the magazine article. Inside views of the three are seen in that issue. I hope you are able to get your own copy of the current "Sew News" magazine. It has many other articles (bra making!) that make for an interesting read. <br><br>

Sew News: features PINTUCKS Vintage Dresses!

The recent Feb/March 2014 issue of "Sew News" magazine features several vintage dresses from my collection. I was contacted by the...

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A Closer View: Navy Silk Sheath, c. 1955

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide1-1_zps10c6724a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="415" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide1-1_zps10c6724a.jpg" width="550" /></a></div><br><br>One of the best ways to learn fine dress making is to study examples of the craft. This silk sheath dress from the mid-1950's is a great example. It is clearly a custom made dress, with many hand sewn details. By looking at it in detail, we can learn more about the design and drape of this wrapped 'sarong style' dress, along with tips on how to sew a feather weight dress like this that holds its shape well when worn. <br><br>This gorgeous navy dress of silk twill has a blue floral pattern that is probably Italian silk. It is backed by lining that is sewn 'in one' with the outer fashion fabric. I use the term 'flat lining' for this process. The lining is also used as a base to hold the drapery in place. It is probable that the customer had a fitting wearing the lining, while the dress designer wrapped the silk fashion fabric around the body, pleating it into the side seams as shown below. <br><br>The right and left sides are patterned and sewn differently, creating the signature sarong effect. This sarong skirt is sewn into the sheath side seam on the right, but it wraps around the left without a side seam, hanging open at the center back. <br><br> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide2-1_zps0ca83a2f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="415" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide2-1_zps0ca83a2f.jpg" width="550" /></a></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide3-1_zps8bf2b4af.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="415" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide3-1_zps8bf2b4af.jpg" width="550" /></a></div><br> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide4-1_zpsbc84d929.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="415" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide4-1_zpsbc84d929.jpg" width="550" /></a></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide5-1_zps01acfeb3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="415" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide5-1_zps01acfeb3.jpg" width="550" /></a></div><br>Looking inside the dress we can see the construction techniques. These are classic points. The scarf weight fashion fabric was 'backed' by a lining. The two layers were stitched together, then cut with pinking shears. When pressed open, the stitching shows clearly that this was 'flat lined'. <br><br>The transfer marks used to place the darts shows as little white dots. These would have been part of the custom or couture process. Seam tape is sewn along the waistline seam to stablize it and keep it from ripping apart. This tape was also used to edge the hem. Using hem tape is an easy way to provide a clean edge that is easy to sew through. <br><br>The bodice of this dress was cut with princess seam lines in the back, while the front had conventional darts. The fashion fabric was draped on top of this and sewn in place. This same lining was used in the skirt, but only to the knee level. This would keep the hips smooth, but allow the hem area to drape nicely. <br><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide6-1_zps8f338eb6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="415" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide6-1_zps8f338eb6.jpg" width="550" /></a></div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide7-1_zps1ebf9ff7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="415" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/Slide7-1_zps1ebf9ff7.jpg" width="550" /></a></div><br><br>This wonderful dress is listed in my <a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/123254798/reservedsilk-wrap-sheath-in-navy-silk">shop on Etsy</a> where you will find more photos of it. If you like this style, look for designs by Dorothy O'Hara, Helen Rose, and Peggy Hunt among others from that era who specialized in draped dresses. <i>(this dress does not have a label)</i><br><br>

A Closer View: Navy Silk Sheath, c. 1955

One of the best ways to learn fine dress making is to study examples of the craft. This silk sheath dress from the mid-1950's is a grea...

Read more »