Fern Violette: California Designer

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/IMG_1507_zpsacd74d7d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="437" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/IMG_1507_zpsacd74d7d.jpg" width="517" /></a></div><br><br>This dress was designed by Fern Johnson Violette. She was born in 1920 in Montana, and grew up on a farm. At age 19, she married Ed Violette and had soon had a daughter. In her early 20’s they moved to Southern California to work in the aircraft factories during WWII. <br><br>After the war, Fern worked for a Los Angeles apparel manufacturer. While there she found that she was a natural for the fashion business. This inspired Fern to open her own company, under the “Fern Violette” label. She produced high-end women’s fashions from a location at 48 Market Street in Venice, California. <br><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/IMG_1509_zps8731c8d7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="561" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/IMG_1509_zps8731c8d7.jpg" width="284" /></a></div><br><br>Later in her career, she hired Jay Morley, Jr. (1981 – 1997) to design for her. He is credited with his name on the label. Jay was the son of a well known actor from the early movie era and worked in the movie business as well. He had a prolific career from 1949 to 1957 as a low budget film costume designer, and is often given screen credit for his gowns. He was known to produce fashions that were more dramatic that Fern’s own earlier signature style. <br><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/IMG_1521_zpsb7d419ae.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="543" src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/pintucks/Blog%20Pix%20Pintucks/IMG_1521_zpsb7d419ae.jpg" width="331" /></a></div><br><br>Fern’s fashions are said to have been worn by Jackie Kennedy, among others. Her line was sold at Bloomingdale’s, Sak’s Fifth Ave, and the Los Angeles luxury store: Bullock’s Wilshire. She designed until the mid-1970’s when she retired with her husband and moved back to Montana where she lived until she passed away in 2010. <br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxcYkEuj0rLT5TGJz2Gc0OnXa2GTWYjA9P185LV9EcqdQdaVUJWTgL-ckj-0WKCmgCNjQlrH0UndI4BJys853LjP27Waoj-fuWvO3AdqmjYPOVvmH3mmot9Lj1w_mT3STcM17DFvPWclma/s1600/IMG_1529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxcYkEuj0rLT5TGJz2Gc0OnXa2GTWYjA9P185LV9EcqdQdaVUJWTgL-ckj-0WKCmgCNjQlrH0UndI4BJys853LjP27Waoj-fuWvO3AdqmjYPOVvmH3mmot9Lj1w_mT3STcM17DFvPWclma/s400/IMG_1529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br><i>This "Fern Violette" design is a cotton two-piece dress, probably from the mid 1950's. It features a rolled collar with a "V" back.</i>

Fern Violette: California Designer

This dress was designed by Fern Johnson Violette. She was born in 1920 in Montana, and grew up on a farm. At age 19, she married Ed Violet...

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1963 Swimsuit Design: Rose Marie Reid advertisement

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioQasteLPCDbnDZJ02_BgihrcQQB0dv5qtUbIvH5gtJaMyCBo3ZLefO4ZgAgF_WiRq-W69I3jY-9M8Yd2q6FGFuKL6jemcdCvGeeceY1BjdJMNZf7pyI_bbhRmqv46LNHk-BFrmXpi7rdW/s1600/IMG_3172.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioQasteLPCDbnDZJ02_BgihrcQQB0dv5qtUbIvH5gtJaMyCBo3ZLefO4ZgAgF_WiRq-W69I3jY-9M8Yd2q6FGFuKL6jemcdCvGeeceY1BjdJMNZf7pyI_bbhRmqv46LNHk-BFrmXpi7rdW/s400/IMG_3172.JPG" width="350" /></a></div><br><br>Super cool 1963 swimsuit design with a flirty Flapper look by California designer Rose Marie Reid, whose fabrics and designs forged new silhouettes in traditional swim wear fashions. Her innovative approach for this blouson swim suit pre-dated the bra-less era by nearly 5 years. Her style parallels that of Rudi Gernreich who worked in the same locale at the same time. <br><br>Magazine ad reads: <br><i>New minimum of maillot that blousons into a stained glass print of Helanca nylon knit! Rose Marie Reid does the look without a bra. Wear it with your own if you still want to after the delight of wearing it au naturel. "Glissando" $25.95. The glowing print by Soptra</i>

1963 Swimsuit Design: Rose Marie Reid advertisement

Super cool 1963 swimsuit design with a flirty Flapper look by California designer Rose Marie Reid, whose fabrics and designs forged new silh...

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California Fashion: Patio Prints from the 1940's and 1950's

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd_YfJmf75GojfZsdpx9Km0UZz47Ffq-UmYrkZ3ax7KrwXWiM2AeqMG0SLdmtMeygCgOTiOBxYXB_eprYZtgX_Gl-hOgNvyHTY9oYR19Tvt6dBSrinwFoV8z3LptG8uQDTNOpz_1r9IQiZ/s1600/IMG_0424.JPG"><img alt="Joseph Zukin" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715727917084638674" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd_YfJmf75GojfZsdpx9Km0UZz47Ffq-UmYrkZ3ax7KrwXWiM2AeqMG0SLdmtMeygCgOTiOBxYXB_eprYZtgX_Gl-hOgNvyHTY9oYR19Tvt6dBSrinwFoV8z3LptG8uQDTNOpz_1r9IQiZ/s400/IMG_0424.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 450px; height: 600px;" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWabjbfuPHCSUOJoXwpZu0QM_X8MHx7g318NY3jB_eDJ18v8LvnN8Y7wRw6y3dJn2qiKVru_Rto8YpGBHkj3eXXc0uH5nFKS_uAqdHi4_ixoO5yIwuY7HVL67ubugDnRWGtMJE9PpZEsQt/s1600/IMG_0425.JPG"><img alt="DeDe Johnson" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715727919702875074" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWabjbfuPHCSUOJoXwpZu0QM_X8MHx7g318NY3jB_eDJ18v8LvnN8Y7wRw6y3dJn2qiKVru_Rto8YpGBHkj3eXXc0uH5nFKS_uAqdHi4_ixoO5yIwuY7HVL67ubugDnRWGtMJE9PpZEsQt/s400/IMG_0425.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 450px; height: 600px;" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguM9v7qQLNuYw1-b-ScBOTTkw5bf71i_37orzpY8FFl4rMK8KuiWbsYz84EdCl8SuJghfF8AFcf3RfNv3SkLPj31AwQ3L4buzQsPaW7BQ76pTtQXkP8xu38VTEcEhvVwO3Pq2vtfKXhyphenhyphenwN/s1600/IMG_0446.JPG"><img alt="DeDe Johnson" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715725309941968402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguM9v7qQLNuYw1-b-ScBOTTkw5bf71i_37orzpY8FFl4rMK8KuiWbsYz84EdCl8SuJghfF8AFcf3RfNv3SkLPj31AwQ3L4buzQsPaW7BQ76pTtQXkP8xu38VTEcEhvVwO3Pq2vtfKXhyphenhyphenwN/s400/IMG_0446.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 450px; height: 600px;" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUrLecOob7lBnJ7IzeUTvxkTzp2qlVhy_NGTJX2j5C4tlMPnAtozxevEKYzILqi3fh0na-D66pk0OeFYcggEY34daMCkIp2uZSKDU45j4fULP68aQntvcG7b7OnC_RAmBhEgz6JNR9Kwl1/s1600/IMG_0426.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715725310552390354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUrLecOob7lBnJ7IzeUTvxkTzp2qlVhy_NGTJX2j5C4tlMPnAtozxevEKYzILqi3fh0na-D66pk0OeFYcggEY34daMCkIp2uZSKDU45j4fULP68aQntvcG7b7OnC_RAmBhEgz6JNR9Kwl1/s400/IMG_0426.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 360px; height: 600px;" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhljPjrvzdBkfGl0O8Y_4Xz1TcQX0PD_uUw6Lx82mEBsbMZnmLppXuqdDwbiPe1pyXVkqhXkpfI6e0tKFSScxDU0tcBYtkAfeB_D8oXB5riBZRk3ESi-_MOcfXdRdSSh8xM3hpU3ASEdVM_/s1600/IMG_0422.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715725305915533618" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhljPjrvzdBkfGl0O8Y_4Xz1TcQX0PD_uUw6Lx82mEBsbMZnmLppXuqdDwbiPe1pyXVkqhXkpfI6e0tKFSScxDU0tcBYtkAfeB_D8oXB5riBZRk3ESi-_MOcfXdRdSSh8xM3hpU3ASEdVM_/s400/IMG_0422.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 364px; height: 600px;" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGRj1eC5U2qao7CHF8APr6Rg079vEyUNC6Z9jnxxWcposdRxnAlvI4Z3sKWRPzyq-Jhh0q2_hUfssCIIGUh4AhkL66MsOhoAAcq1dk_2b22-4u00W4pogxFSVnBxqTuaQ8MyZmFaq6QZzE/s1600/IMG_0430.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715725327073511074" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGRj1eC5U2qao7CHF8APr6Rg079vEyUNC6Z9jnxxWcposdRxnAlvI4Z3sKWRPzyq-Jhh0q2_hUfssCIIGUh4AhkL66MsOhoAAcq1dk_2b22-4u00W4pogxFSVnBxqTuaQ8MyZmFaq6QZzE/s400/IMG_0430.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 450px; height: 600px;" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKBKfWJr3SumwygcWPvVAVLvXteAOQBgecFV2qyRLh59VHGKtUIYK5hmVDqjgMfYEa-Kc11C6Eicg2SNraJFDFcHrSbzGZFGydFzjkVLPQO6ysBc65YBWMvEz2lJb-HTOJk41UabJCeosV/s1600/IMG_0431.JPG"><img alt="Joseph Zukin" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715725322105921346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKBKfWJr3SumwygcWPvVAVLvXteAOQBgecFV2qyRLh59VHGKtUIYK5hmVDqjgMfYEa-Kc11C6Eicg2SNraJFDFcHrSbzGZFGydFzjkVLPQO6ysBc65YBWMvEz2lJb-HTOJk41UabJCeosV/s400/IMG_0431.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 420px; height: 600px;" /></a><br />With a growing popularity in outdoor living, California designers during the 1940's and 1950's developed a fashion niche to meet the needs of that lifestyle. These two patio and play outfits show simple fabrications, with charming novelty prints.<br /><br />The yellow set is by DeDe Johnson and is from the late 1950's. The textile is printed in patio sets and barbeque designs on a yellow field. The shirt and shorts set by Joseph Zukin of California company is a rayon blend from 1945. The ariel view of New York city has a balloon motif that is accented by little red ball buttons that repeat the balloon shapes in a novel way.<br /><br />Both outfits are currently on display at <a href=" http://www.lacma.org/art/exhibition/californiadesign"> California Design: 1930-1965</a> through June 2, 2012 at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

California Fashion: Patio Prints from the 1940's and 1950's

With a growing popularity in outdoor living, California designers during the 1940's and 1950's developed a fashion niche to meet the...

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California Design: An exhibit worth seeing

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSOZttxtzxf8C29PYZ7wa5Mv22s6VdC0njylb4bZwB9kJMSnHW6_zIgzOjhcPwcb20B98lGsrZuiB0E_NQ19dpNhCJrKQepayfOOPh52JP2rEJJH-ytwjD-k9xDLyy_V_lGhS7TyXgK07C/s1600/lobster+set.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5703193355403785522" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSOZttxtzxf8C29PYZ7wa5Mv22s6VdC0njylb4bZwB9kJMSnHW6_zIgzOjhcPwcb20B98lGsrZuiB0E_NQ19dpNhCJrKQepayfOOPh52JP2rEJJH-ytwjD-k9xDLyy_V_lGhS7TyXgK07C/s400/lobster+set.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" /></a>"California Design: 1930 - 1965: Living in a Modern Way" showcases a wide variety of furnishings, graphic arts and life-style accessories. We were happy to see more than a few great iconic fashion pieces such as this Lobster duo designed by Mary Ann De Weese for Catalina Sportswear in 1949. <br /><br />If you thought this exhibition at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art was only about the Eames', you will find that to be only the tip of the design ice berg!<br /><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">Lobster fashions from the collection of Esther Ginsberg, Golyester Antiques<br /></span><br /><a href=" http://www.lacma.org/art/exhibition/californiadesign"><span style="font-weight:bold;">LACMA Museum exhibition continues through June 3, 2012</span></a>

California Design: An exhibit worth seeing

"California Design: 1930 - 1965: Living in a Modern Way" showcases a wide variety of furnishings, graphic arts and life-style acce...

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Vintage Details: Glibert Adrian: Suit Jacket c. 1947: part 2

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib-3KQ1ili53NmJGsdo7dWOrXIA7Vp67ozXPEI1TvSLWZzZ-cGGMgUu5YC0UpaE6I2j9-ow90Tzby6-kA2u9VbDc5KaWFRXx5dDxpIKlzjW5R6HLXRWfUR46BoipEFOUlzjbmGJsS7Zl67/s1600/Slide1.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642779770795792530" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib-3KQ1ili53NmJGsdo7dWOrXIA7Vp67ozXPEI1TvSLWZzZ-cGGMgUu5YC0UpaE6I2j9-ow90Tzby6-kA2u9VbDc5KaWFRXx5dDxpIKlzjW5R6HLXRWfUR46BoipEFOUlzjbmGJsS7Zl67/s400/Slide1.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 286px; height: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Seeing how a vintage jacket was designed to be worn can help to understand its style and silhouette. This original photo of Adrian’s black wool jacket from 1947 shows the model wearing dark gloves. At that time, hair and hats were often small and fit close to the head for a more modern look, although long hair was still seen, especially on a younger customer.<br /><br /><br /><br />This jacket was selected by the regional fashion magazine "California Stylist" along with only three other styles to represent Adrian’s designs for 1947. The design must have been an influential and popular model from his collection that year (Calif. Stylist, 1950).<br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsDTY1z8EdYt1uvXvfC1y8wl5m6SJann0VbicMKcuQI5TFV-qxCZhUmdqiTHwzG5AmAb47S0XC_VipY83EGJcJSUkOD62qg_an9kMltU_Hv6M-PvFuUucISfb0abwopbuycrmIWyKTD3TB/s1600/Slide6.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642779598792901938" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsDTY1z8EdYt1uvXvfC1y8wl5m6SJann0VbicMKcuQI5TFV-qxCZhUmdqiTHwzG5AmAb47S0XC_VipY83EGJcJSUkOD62qg_an9kMltU_Hv6M-PvFuUucISfb0abwopbuycrmIWyKTD3TB/s400/Slide6.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />The ‘tubular suit’ as shown in "Vogue" magazine, April 1947, was usually seen with a straight and narrow skirt that is below the knee in length. <br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_vgjzHfp18d53wwValvY0E7L1fj3oP5ptbpaE8y3wMFMhXOYhL98Xvt5ZtobY_02WKY4DAqWhCVl_RuxNUTPG7KrzI7o9YXsfCQSk6bbsQoQCI4hVSa2Pv7_EnLiIuzSA2FBFO1HmHydu/s1600/Slide2.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642780022561190626" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_vgjzHfp18d53wwValvY0E7L1fj3oP5ptbpaE8y3wMFMhXOYhL98Xvt5ZtobY_02WKY4DAqWhCVl_RuxNUTPG7KrzI7o9YXsfCQSk6bbsQoQCI4hVSa2Pv7_EnLiIuzSA2FBFO1HmHydu/s400/Slide2.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 255px;" /></a><br /><br />In a study of the garment structure, the shoulders are structured with ¾ inch thick shoulder pads. Although this seems extreme for 1947, the shoulder width does not extend dramatically from the natural shoulder width. It is evident from close examination from the outside, that the upper torso is heavily hand tailored. The lower front of the body, sleeve hems and peplum are left soft and un-reinforced with heavy interfacing. <br /><br /><br /><br />Hand sewing is evident in the bound buttonholes, and patch pocket applications. The faille lining is hand sewn to the facings. Overall, the methods used are traditional for women’s tailoring. This suit would have been produced in a downtown Los Angeles factory, rather than custom made at his Beverly Hills salon.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">(click on the photos to see them enlarged)<br /><br />Please contact me if you would like to use these photos, thank you.</span><br /><br />

Vintage Details: Glibert Adrian: Suit Jacket c. 1947: part 2

Seeing how a vintage jacket was designed to be worn can help to understand its style and silhouette. This original photo of Adrian’s black ...

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