Early 1970's Fashion Illustrations: Styles and Silhouettes

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRC0sRwWHN_B4enr1xSnrwJpoLSr7Fz4c-X99Hw_V6dF0rAJg_bJ4TUvWnFXSeexrlaf2eQyyi36_iwj5hcz5OtljApvB2bSBfGaJDNHB_BWBY1ffGXfRf4O2TaQmjytkx6XcjNpxGhGjL/s1600/IMG_9805.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5707942919938456418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRC0sRwWHN_B4enr1xSnrwJpoLSr7Fz4c-X99Hw_V6dF0rAJg_bJ4TUvWnFXSeexrlaf2eQyyi36_iwj5hcz5OtljApvB2bSBfGaJDNHB_BWBY1ffGXfRf4O2TaQmjytkx6XcjNpxGhGjL/s400/IMG_9805.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigq4Smsk0SgbL9KyTFYqiGhjsJjfUFPmfddEqtOQv__rneoSh68LUBhzap7pXbAzKo14JBgvqEKR2P9zA1Q5Djy3gcyPUZTTL4TMk_z1XbGXbQlGTtBD386QcPNT3ZJB_8BBjb-k08k3AI/s1600/IMG_9806.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5707942914675468306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigq4Smsk0SgbL9KyTFYqiGhjsJjfUFPmfddEqtOQv__rneoSh68LUBhzap7pXbAzKo14JBgvqEKR2P9zA1Q5Djy3gcyPUZTTL4TMk_z1XbGXbQlGTtBD386QcPNT3ZJB_8BBjb-k08k3AI/s400/IMG_9806.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 296px; height: 400px;" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9QqP3IU5ocAOSKBg8MWLthDc5uwwfG5PgUQNL1vvLHkAJPkRQckUDwmqP8yviQnMGQO3ceavM_ZIiuD0N4qOOVR1jJysZgpJ_vrdb56WlLZJrpiW86TRzQifoioHy0y6kXrnNszicN6Ov/s1600/IMG_9804.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5707942927807062130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9QqP3IU5ocAOSKBg8MWLthDc5uwwfG5PgUQNL1vvLHkAJPkRQckUDwmqP8yviQnMGQO3ceavM_ZIiuD0N4qOOVR1jJysZgpJ_vrdb56WlLZJrpiW86TRzQifoioHy0y6kXrnNszicN6Ov/s400/IMG_9804.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 227px; height: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />Simplcity Sewing Patterns, Spring, 1972<br />These simple line drawings were probably drawn using strong black India ink and a quill pen or Rapideograph pen (an early for-runner of ink pens, with an inner reservoir for ink). They tend to run 9.5 heads in height which was beginning to show popularity at the time, over the more realistic 8.5 heads.

Early 1970's Fashion Illustrations: Styles and Silhouettes

Simplcity Sewing Patterns, Spring, 1972 These simple line drawings were probably drawn using strong black India ink and a quill pen or Rapid...

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1972: Prom and Party Styles

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi59dvX76WPb2yS7J1P3MZrpYMLcirDnof_THCKbotGBpHR9xEKecrFhTrxorSQzIR00ns3pZEW0EgWlGY6RO6DhGCCE_X3_-K54SAfMDESknZ_BJ_DLXrFXuSQJdyT_DC_hs2uB8N3e9L3/s1600/IMG_9825.JPG"><img alt="Simplicity 9725, 1972" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5703169611128087298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi59dvX76WPb2yS7J1P3MZrpYMLcirDnof_THCKbotGBpHR9xEKecrFhTrxorSQzIR00ns3pZEW0EgWlGY6RO6DhGCCE_X3_-K54SAfMDESknZ_BJ_DLXrFXuSQJdyT_DC_hs2uB8N3e9L3/s400/IMG_9825.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4XBogX0RYmAbhM9GgJcs5cwxqtyMbN057BdpPVw3aNWeNxI13sGtMKSCS1kHIFNgX2U2Hnu4nGsFycJNAV75WO8DYghsfk6Nas4b42iVYPCEupUiF9dbkTjL5FE9njjkrRvuyhmM-vc94/s1600/IMG_9810.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5703173512690242018" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4XBogX0RYmAbhM9GgJcs5cwxqtyMbN057BdpPVw3aNWeNxI13sGtMKSCS1kHIFNgX2U2Hnu4nGsFycJNAV75WO8DYghsfk6Nas4b42iVYPCEupUiF9dbkTjL5FE9njjkrRvuyhmM-vc94/s400/IMG_9810.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 330px; height: 400px;" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5nQLVp8sAaCae30rM9B90_NizaS_YXZdHVd_L1DOicdBSESGqY_NHo3AiCxjThbUvBhzmSVM8D4jybvow2XO6Zh7rfwT7rbn4dkBu5doIFhxmc2_v_KySegEYUfABvSbSTm-XoydYZPOR/s1600/IMG_9826.JPG"><img alt="Simplicity 9709, 1972" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5703169863759529746" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5nQLVp8sAaCae30rM9B90_NizaS_YXZdHVd_L1DOicdBSESGqY_NHo3AiCxjThbUvBhzmSVM8D4jybvow2XO6Zh7rfwT7rbn4dkBu5doIFhxmc2_v_KySegEYUfABvSbSTm-XoydYZPOR/s400/IMG_9826.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijGoyjaM1DrIJFVoXLjMO3xIk2sdAD1PNMx4CbFBwy0jqmjIk5uaKiFGiLuJ3LCBhbbRXmHfYxfKJRctqy3ezBRkQT8dG3kl5Fra9FL9rk_FV3ElGpihWvhbz4plAHzcdjzWrYjgg9QaRg/s1600/IMG_9809.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5703170088929340610" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijGoyjaM1DrIJFVoXLjMO3xIk2sdAD1PNMx4CbFBwy0jqmjIk5uaKiFGiLuJ3LCBhbbRXmHfYxfKJRctqy3ezBRkQT8dG3kl5Fra9FL9rk_FV3ElGpihWvhbz4plAHzcdjzWrYjgg9QaRg/s400/IMG_9809.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" /></a><br /><br />The two Simplicity patterns shown here date from Spring, 1972 and include textile swatches suggested for each pattern style.<br /><br />Simplicity 9725 was part of a young looking group called "Young Contemporary Fashion". It included styles that seemed to be currently selling in the market for juniors. Fabric suggestions include 50% polyester/50% rayon blend wovens in a sheer leno stripe weave. The midriff waistline with flutter sleeves was influenced by the vintage 1930's styles popular at that time.<br /><br />Simplicity 9709 is a bit more mature, from the "Designer Fashion" collection (no name mentioned in this promotional group). It was suggested for patio parties and proms. The black bodice shows up often during this era, worn over bright abstract or floral patterns. The fabrics shown here are 75% acetate/25% nylon in a textured 'terry cloth' texture on a velour knit. Bright solids are paired with very graphic prints inspired by Pucci and patchwork quilts.

1972: Prom and Party Styles

The two Simplicity patterns shown here date from Spring, 1972 and include textile swatches suggested for each pattern style. Simplicity 9725...

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Spring 1972: 40 Years Ago, Sportswear Patterns and Fabric

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjePlRAoSKqlMZy7S6cXzk0yxWFeJMzsZ90mrrffZCpnxeUbO9zveprWXwEhRoVaVA1SgmTTITQiKJjtKyziXSE3hodiMctS7ZxdkHReqH7i_gLxCPddLtJABY3EDOmLdHyWXfglOWe8so_/s1600/IMG_9818.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="Simplicity 9650" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5693457212879234882" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjePlRAoSKqlMZy7S6cXzk0yxWFeJMzsZ90mrrffZCpnxeUbO9zveprWXwEhRoVaVA1SgmTTITQiKJjtKyziXSE3hodiMctS7ZxdkHReqH7i_gLxCPddLtJABY3EDOmLdHyWXfglOWe8so_/s400/IMG_9818.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 375px; height: 500px;" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIwwNQTuFGHoppuLjL6ZuaNJgsXmQLdVEw5KfVmnXpoLv1nph6Mj1AvJ1-OhbWmy_SpvcgosaVQuBGGEk8TqSZfSLvajWDVnULZNf_gyCROKnuAjwfosyh1IO1RLWQ4r5j2A3eqhE2sW0F/s1600/IMG_9817.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="1972 fabric" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5693457059889245938" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIwwNQTuFGHoppuLjL6ZuaNJgsXmQLdVEw5KfVmnXpoLv1nph6Mj1AvJ1-OhbWmy_SpvcgosaVQuBGGEk8TqSZfSLvajWDVnULZNf_gyCROKnuAjwfosyh1IO1RLWQ4r5j2A3eqhE2sW0F/s400/IMG_9817.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 375px; height: 500px;" /></a>Forty years ago, Simplicity pattern company produced a guide to Spring 1972 teen fashions along with textiles suitable for each pattern. This first pattern (Simplicity 9650) features a safari outfit, with shorts or flare leg pants. Style suggestions include adding a 'rugged leather belt', neck scarf or hat.<br /><br />Colorful denim is advised for sewing this outfit. These swatches are 50% Kodel polyester / 50% cotton in 44-45" widths. Popular colors are simple primaries: red, light blue and classic denim blue. Naturals in brown with a coordinate stripe offer an alternative to the brights.<br /><br />These illustrations were produced for Spring 1972 in a large format portfolio of pattern pages opposite the swatch pages. The portfolio is titled "Teen Fashion Environment" and was produced by the W.T. Grant company, a discount chain store that carried fabric and sewing patterns in small towns across the U.S.

Spring 1972: 40 Years Ago, Sportswear Patterns and Fabric

Forty years ago, Simplicity pattern company produced a guide to Spring 1972 teen fashions along with textiles suitable for each pattern. Th...

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1970's for New Years

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFbIud9rHlU0QoNCkHBNhkLa6J9SOHjP9vj634P7lE2Rr_S_8QVyZcg3LlYKb0_nN7hCV81s75EuO7qDgRDSLQyKs6Unk1UNYauCcciX9Wt60m_8e8IpxSXW9wqqqtnGVOf8l5DtfYR7Ot/s1600/P1030166.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="1970s sewing pattern" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5689005684313281346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFbIud9rHlU0QoNCkHBNhkLa6J9SOHjP9vj634P7lE2Rr_S_8QVyZcg3LlYKb0_nN7hCV81s75EuO7qDgRDSLQyKs6Unk1UNYauCcciX9Wt60m_8e8IpxSXW9wqqqtnGVOf8l5DtfYR7Ot/s400/P1030166.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 308px; height: 600px;" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiopfvw5Ew6js8i_Ns2OdFvEIUtN2KKelfpJl3Fke7mwXBKXtiGll9tWBwfQjn1Tuel_t_7vgldnKgSYngzD8rAcJ2ezPo6Je0XXp0tBJktqT1UpOFVmN0x6r8buafXc_x1lmtLy_Gml2J5/s1600/P6270016.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="McCall's 3206" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5689008118795039522" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiopfvw5Ew6js8i_Ns2OdFvEIUtN2KKelfpJl3Fke7mwXBKXtiGll9tWBwfQjn1Tuel_t_7vgldnKgSYngzD8rAcJ2ezPo6Je0XXp0tBJktqT1UpOFVmN0x6r8buafXc_x1lmtLy_Gml2J5/s400/P6270016.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 500px;" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUxP1RDzvLkvWiXHp0ZjKCQ4XjH6Ln_W_kbMm_BXskAsM-gIaDgJuWTYN12FNhkZ5gSYjjrXs7-jTOitgnvVwNPCYTzFNr-40ED4eSR5EwbVCxsfvb-CVDvC2eGibnd0JLI-kmjvbnqC3O/s1600/P1030077.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="simplicity 8025" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5689005541585358018" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUxP1RDzvLkvWiXHp0ZjKCQ4XjH6Ln_W_kbMm_BXskAsM-gIaDgJuWTYN12FNhkZ5gSYjjrXs7-jTOitgnvVwNPCYTzFNr-40ED4eSR5EwbVCxsfvb-CVDvC2eGibnd0JLI-kmjvbnqC3O/s400/P1030077.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 235px; height: 600px;" /></a><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">Fashion illustrations from 1970's patterns:<br />Two figures: a Butterick pattern (torn number)<br />Two figures with red dress: McCall's 3206<br />Green Dress: Simplicity 8025</span>

1970's for New Years

Fashion illustrations from 1970's patterns: Two figures: a Butterick pattern (torn number) Two figures with red dress: McCall's 3206...

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1970's Vintage Sewing Patterns & California Fashion Designers

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlLFbGFUR1483pDXDwSydvPp8pvFWKBnI8B4ToE8bja0CbijEUKcKyko7dgffsurAZiaZQUIlNd-bd8VdCdzcI4lxhmwsXRZ4WblihEkmGbBrS6j-bYdqxWhKAdwI5IIiOHz22XNjoKRzg/s1600/GunneSax+pattern%252C+1979.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672051661813617682" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlLFbGFUR1483pDXDwSydvPp8pvFWKBnI8B4ToE8bja0CbijEUKcKyko7dgffsurAZiaZQUIlNd-bd8VdCdzcI4lxhmwsXRZ4WblihEkmGbBrS6j-bYdqxWhKAdwI5IIiOHz22XNjoKRzg/s400/GunneSax+pattern%252C+1979.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px; height: 395px;" /></a><br />Collecting and selling vintage sewing patterns has heightened my awareness of “designer” brands from past decades. I have often wondered about some of the late 1970’s patterns. Why were there so many pattern designers from Los Angeles then? Like “Made in California”, there seemed to be more interest in west coast fashion back then than today. I did some digging around and came up with part of the story:<br /><br />By 1979, the home sewing business was around $3.4 billion per year. About 125 million patterns were sold annually. The four major pattern companies at that time were: Vogue, Butterick, McCall’s and Simplicity. About 35 to 40 million home sewers were located in Southern California, the largest regional group in the US. The huge demand for home sewing patterns in California prompted the home sewing industry to release designs by popular local fashion designers. It was also hoped that the allure of the west coast life style would spread a demand for these young, unique and less European fashion designs throughout the country.<br /><br />At that time it cost $25,000 to produce and issue one original designer pattern for the home sewing market. Featuring a designer meant that companies expected a good sell out to support their investment. Seeking life style branding, along with a middle class interest in a fashion that was more accessible, the designer patterns where hoped to be top selling designs not only on the west coast, but nationally as well. <br /><br />In that year, eleven fashion designers from Los Angeles and two from San Francisco had sewing patterns featuring their labels. Seven of these designers were published by McCall’s. By May, 1979 that company featured designer patterns by Bob Mackie, Norma Fink’s “Theodore” label, Carol Little’s “St. Tropez West” label, “Singer and Spicer” and the “Strauss” label by Bonnie Strauss. In June, 1979 the “Ma Chemise” label by Dennis Goldsmith and Nancy Heller’s “Tea Shirts” designs would be added to the roster of California design talent at McCall’s.<br /><br />In 1978, Simplicity patterns, the largest pattern company at that time, sought out a strong California identity. Their west coast design roster featured Holly Harp, Harriet Selwyn’s label “Fragments” and “Gunne Sax” by Jessica McClintock. Jessica McClintock would prove to be a profitable pattern label that continues to be part of the Simplicity pattern company designer roster.<br /><br />The Vogue pattern company had always featured well known American fashion designers and is credited with being first to feature California labels (that’s debatable). In 1976 they started including local talent with Edith Head’s designs. As a movie costumer who didn’t design or manufacture, she was a legend of Hollywood glamour. <br /><br />Butterick’s first California designer label was for Jane Tise in 1975 under the “Young Designer” title for her label “Sweet Baby Jane”. If a count were made, she would probably be one of the top designers creating sewing patterns during that decade. The California free spirit and inspiration buyers sought after were featured in Jane Tise designs. Lesser known Nancy Stolkin’s simple to sew yet fashionable designs were added in April, 1979. <br /><br />What seems like a spontaneous display of interest in California fashion designers was brought about by two occurrences: an alarming downturn in pattern sales that began in 1976, and the realization that most home sewers thought high fashion designer labels were too complicated and difficult to sew. The companies hoped that these new California labels would seem inspiring without being intimidating. They also hoped the new looks would bring back a customer who was wearing more pants, fewer dresses and sewing for herself less often. Like Jessica McClintock, a few designer labels would be long term sellers, keeping some of the departing sewing masses in the fold.<br /><br />Most information for this article came from an April 16, 1979 news article “Pattern Makers Heading West for Designs for Middle America” written by west coast fashion journalist, Marylou Luther, who wrote for the “Los Angeles Times”. <br /><br />Below is an incomplete inventory of the California designer patterns, starting in the 1970’s. Most are currently available for sale online. If you have more pattern numbers to add to the lists, please feel free to leave them in the comment’s section, thanks!<br /><br />McCalls: <br />Norma Fink “Theodore”: McCall’s: 6770<br />Bob Mackie: McCall’s: 6840 (1979)<br />Nancy Heller: McCall’s:, 8783, 9040 (80s), 9055 (1984) <br />Singer and Spicer: McCalls: 6756<br />Carol Little “Saint-Tropez West”: McCall’s: 6725, 6726, 7983(1982), 8816 (1983)<br /><br />Simplicity:<br />Harriet Selwyn “Fragments”: Simplicity: 8648 (1978), 8905 (1979)<br />Dennis Goldsmith: Simplicity: 8589(1988), 9193 (1989), 9856 (1990), 9885 (1990, girl’s)<br />Holly’s Harp: Simplicity: 8645, 8646 (1978), 9177 (1979)<br />Nancy Heller: Simplicity: 8607<br />Jessica McClintock, “Gunne Sax”: Simplicity: 6270, 6271 (1983), 9350 (1979), 8907, 8947, 8223 (1987), 8224 (1987), 7563 (1991), 8985 (1989, girls), 8671, 9558, 9100, 6883, 6361 (1983)<br /><br />Butterick:<br />Nancy Stolkin: Butterick: 6579, 6581<br />Jane Tise “Sweet Baby Jane”: Butterick: 4096, 4098, 4099, 4100, 4391, 4642, 5049, 5050, 5051, 5283, 5990, 5991, 5992, 5993, 6330, 6331, 6332, 6412, 6681, 6682, 6683, 6684<br /><br />Vogue:<br />Edith Head: Vogue, American Designers: 1560, 1803, 1895, 1896, 2041, 2221, 2335, 2560, 2561, 2831, 2832, 2923

1970's Vintage Sewing Patterns & California Fashion Designers

Collecting and selling vintage sewing patterns has heightened my awareness of “designer” brands from past decades. I have often wondered ab...

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